Pruneaux fourrés (stuffed prunes) are a Tourangelle confection of venerable tradition — large, plump Agen prunes (pruneaux d'Agen, themselves an AOC product from the southwest) that are carefully pitted, filled with almond paste (pâte d'amande), and sometimes enrobed in dark chocolate or fondant. Tours has been a center of the prune-stuffing trade since the 17th century, when the city sat at the crossroads of the prune routes from Agen (coming up the Garonne) and the almond routes from Provence, making it the natural meeting point for the two ingredients. The technique requires specific prunes: mi-cuits (semi-dried, 35% moisture) rather than fully dried, ensuring a plump, yielding texture. The prunes are steamed briefly to soften, then split along one side (never fully opened) and the pit removed with a small knife. The almond paste filling is made from blanched almonds, sugar, and a binding of egg white, flavored with kirsch, vanilla, or orange flower water. A small finger of paste is inserted into each prune, which is then pressed closed, leaving a visible seam of green or white almond paste. The contrast is essential: the dark, jammy, slightly tannic prune against the smooth, sweet, aromatic paste. Superior versions use Agen prunes mi-cuits of the largest caliber (28-33 per 500g), marzipan made from Sicilian almonds, and finish with a thin shell of dark couverture chocolate (70%). Pruneaux fourrés are served as petits fours with coffee, as part of a Christmas thirteen-desserts spread (they appear in the Provençal tradition too), and as gifts in decorated boxes from the confiseries of Tours. The best artisan producers — La Maison des Pruneaux, Confiserie du Roy René — use traditional hand-stuffing methods that machines cannot replicate.
Agen prunes mi-cuits (semi-dried, 35% moisture), pitted. Filled with kirsch-flavored almond paste. Split along one side, never fully opened. Visible seam of paste. Optional dark chocolate enrobing. Tours as historical crossroads of prune and almond trade. Hand-stuffed for best quality.
For homemade: source pruneaux d'Agen mi-cuits (available online from Maison Roucadil). Make the almond paste fresh: 200g blanched almonds ground fine, 150g icing sugar, 1 egg white, 15ml kirsch. Steam the prunes 3 minutes before pitting to ensure pliability. For the chocolate version: temper 70% dark couverture, dip each stuffed prune halfway, set on parchment. As petits fours, arrange on a silver tray alternating with quernons d'ardoise for a Loire confection selection.
Using fully dried prunes (too hard and leathery — mi-cuits are essential). Making the almond paste too sweet (it should balance the prune's tannic depth). Overfilling (the prune should close back around the paste). Using cheap marzipan (commercial marzipan is too sugary — make fresh almond paste). Serving cold (room temperature for full flavor). Cutting them in half to serve (present whole — the discovery of the filling is part of the pleasure).
Confiseries et Douceurs de France — Philippe Labro; Cuisine de Touraine Traditionnelle