Moena, Fassa Valley, Trentino
Trentino's most aromatic cheese — a washed-rind full-fat cow's milk cheese from the Fassa Valley, ripened for a minimum of 90 days with weekly brine washing. The name means 'the stinky one from Moena' — entirely accurate. The rind is sticky, red-orange from Brevibacterium linens, intensely fragrant (barnyard, ammonia, cooked cream), while the paste is supple, elastic, ivory-yellow, and comparatively gentle: buttery, nutty, with a long savoury finish. Officially protected as Puzzone di Moena/Spretz Tzaorì (the Ladin name).
Aggressively aromatic rind (barnyard, ammonia, ferment) over a gentle, buttery, nutty paste — Trentino's most confrontational and rewarding cheese
Weekly brine washing during ripening is critical — the brine keeps the surface moist, distributes B. linens evenly, and controls rind development. The contrast between the aggressive rind and the gentle paste is the cheese's defining characteristic — if the paste is too sharp, the cheese has been over-ripened or temperature-abused. Temperature consistency during ripening (10-12°C) prevents runaway rind development.
Puzzone melts beautifully — use it in polenta concia (polenta with melted cheese) or on pizza added after baking. For cheese board service: pair with rye bread, walnuts, and a local Lagrein or Gewürztraminer. The intensity means small portions — a 30g portion is generous. Ask for a young specimen if buying for cooking; older puzzone for a cheese course.
Discarding the rind without tasting — the rind is edible and the flavour contrast (aggressive rind, gentle paste) is the experience. Serving too cold — refrigerator temperature suppresses the aromatic compounds that define the cheese. Pairing with overtly sweet wines that don't have sufficient acid to cut the rind's ammonia notes.
Formaggi del Trentino-Alto Adige — Accademia Italiana della Cucina