Lombardia (Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Milan, Pavia provinces)
Lombardia's ancient square soft cheese — made since the 10th century from the milk of cows fed on quartirola grasses (fourth-cut summer pastures in September-October, hence the name). A washed or natural-rind square cheese of 1.5-3.5kg, available in two forms: fresco (white, crumbly, mildly acidic at 30 days) and stagionato (firmer, more complex at 90+ days). The fresco type is Italy's most delicate soft cheese — lighter than ricotta but firmer.
Gently acidic, fresh-milk white, with a clean lactic tang and a crumbly-cream texture — the lightest and most delicate of the Lombard DOP cheeses
The milk quality and pastoralism of the quartirola (fourth-cut) grasses historically gave the cheese its distinctive lightness — lower fat milk from late-season cows grazing on regrowth grasses. Modern production uses full-fat milk but maintains the cheese's traditional acidity through controlled lactic fermentation. The square format distinguishes it from round soft cheeses and maximises rind surface area relative to volume.
Quartirolo fresco paired with honey and crushed walnuts is a perfect northern Italian cheese course. For cooking: the stagionato version melts well and contributes a mild, slightly acidic flavour to risotto or polenta. The cheese pairs naturally with Franciacorta sparkling wine (also Lombard) — the acidity of both mirrors each other.
Confusing fresco and stagionato — fresco crumbles and dissolves like ricotta and works best fresh; stagionato slices cleanly and works better for cooking. Storing fresco type in an air-tight container — it needs breathability to prevent moisture buildup. Serving too cold — fresco especially must come to room temperature to express its delicate lactic flavour.
Formaggi d'Italia — Slow Food Editore