Basilicata — the rafanata is most strongly associated with the Matera province and the Carnevale tradition. Wild horseradish (rafano selvatico) grows in the Lucano uplands and is used in several preparations specific to the region. The Carnevale timing reflects the tradition of consuming all eggs before the Lenten fast.
Rafanata is one of the most unusual frittata preparations in Italian cooking — a thick egg frittata strongly flavoured with grated fresh horseradish (rafano selvatico, wild horseradish), which grows throughout the Basilicata and Calabria uplands. The horseradish is grated raw into the egg mixture, producing a frittata with a distinctive sinus-clearing pungency and warmth. The heat of the horseradish softens considerably during cooking but the flavour remains unmistakable. It is a Carnevale preparation in the Matera area — made in the days before Lent, when eggs and strong flavours are traditional. The combination of mild egg and pungent horseradish is the surprise of Lucano cooking.
Rafanata is a frittata unlike any other in Italian cooking — the horseradish pungency arrives mid-chew, warming the back of the throat with a clean, sinus-clearing heat. The egg and Pecorino provide richness and mildness as counterpoint. Cut in wedges, it is simultaneously surprising and deeply satisfying — one of those preparations that makes you wonder why horseradish is not in more egg dishes.
Grate fresh horseradish root coarsely (50-60g for 6 eggs — adjust to taste and strength of the root). Beat eggs with salt, Pecorino Canestrato Lucano (grated), black pepper, and the grated horseradish. The mixture will be fragrant and slightly spicy. Heat generous olive oil in a heavy pan; pour in the frittata mixture. Cook over medium-low heat, covered, until the edges set and the centre begins to firm. Flip using a plate; return to pan and complete cooking the other side. The frittata should be golden on both sides and set through but not dry.
Fresh horseradish root is available at farmers' markets, Polish/Eastern European grocers, and some specialist greengrocers in late spring. The heat of horseradish is volatile and diminishes with cooking — the raw mixture should be quite aggressive to ensure sufficient flavour in the finished frittata. Some Lucano cooks add a small amount of nduja crumbled into the egg mixture for an additional layer of spiced fat.
Using jarred horseradish instead of fresh — jarred horseradish in vinegar has completely different character; fresh root is essential. Too much horseradish for a first attempt — the heat varies enormously between roots; start with 30g and adjust. Over-cooking the frittata — a dry, rubbery frittata loses the silkiness that contrasts with the horseradish's heat.
Slow Food Editore, Basilicata in Cucina; Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane