Reblochon (AOC 1958) is the signature cheese of the Haute-Savoie and one of France's most important mountain cheeses — a small (450g), flat, washed-rind disc made from raw cow's milk (Abondance, Tarine, or Montbéliarde breeds grazing between 500-2500m altitude) with a history rooted in medieval tax evasion. The name comes from 're-blocher' — to milk again: during the 14th century, farmers in the Aravis mountains were taxed based on the volume of milk produced at each milking. They would incompletely milk their cows during the tax inspector's visit, then return to 'remilk' (reblocher) after he left. This second, richer milk — higher in fat from the retained cream — was used to make Reblochon, a cheese of extraordinary creaminess. The production: raw milk is heated to 35°C, rennet-set for 30-40 minutes, the curd is cut, gently pressed into moulds lined with fine cloth, salted, and aged in cool cellars (12-16°C) for 3-5 weeks. The rind is washed with brine during affinage, developing its distinctive thin, orange-pink skin with a fine white bloom. At peak ripeness: the paste is uniformly supple and ivory-colored, with a rich, nutty, slightly fruity flavor and a pronounced mushroom-cream aroma. Reblochon fermier (farm-made, identified by a green casein disc on the rind) is made from a single herd's milk on the farm where the cows graze — it is more complex and seasonal than the laitier (creamery) version (red disc). In the kitchen: Reblochon is the essential cheese for tartiflette (already covered), but it is equally important on the cheese board — served at 18-20°C so the paste is flowing — and in croûte de Reblochon (a whole Reblochon baked in its box at 200°C for 20 minutes, the top rind scored, eaten with potatoes and charcuterie like a one-cheese raclette).
AOC 1958, Haute-Savoie. Raw cow's milk, washed rind, 450g disc. Re-blocher origin (second milking, richer milk). Fermier (green disc, farm-made) vs. laitier (red disc, creamery). Aged 3-5 weeks at 12-16°C. Supple, nutty, mushroom-cream. Essential for tartiflette. Croûte de Reblochon: baked in box at 200°C, 20 min. Serve at 18-20°C.
For croûte de Reblochon: take a whole fermier Reblochon, score the top rind in a cross, place in its wooden box (remove plastic if any), bake at 200°C for 20 minutes until the interior is molten — serve immediately with boiled potatoes, cornichons, and dried sausage. For the cheese board: Reblochon fermier is best in late spring through autumn, when the cows are on alpine pasture (alpage) — the cheese reflects the wildflower-rich milk. Pair with a Savoyard white wine (Apremont, Chignin-Bergeron) or a light Gamay from Savoie. Visit the Reblochon farms in the Aravis valley (Grand-Bornand, La Clusaz) during summer — many sell fermier directly from the farm.
Serving cold (Reblochon needs 1-2 hours at room temperature — cold Reblochon is firm and muted). Confusing fermier with laitier (look for the green casein disc — fermier is significantly more complex). Using pasteurized Reblochon for tartiflette (raw-milk Reblochon melts more beautifully and has deeper flavor). Not removing the rind for tartiflette (the rind goes face-down on the potatoes, face-up is optional — but never remove it entirely, as it adds flavor). Over-aging (Reblochon past 6 weeks becomes ammoniac and bitter — eat at 3-5 weeks). Storing in plastic wrap (use wax paper — plastic suffocates the rind and accelerates ammonia development).
Fromages de France — Pierre Androuët; Les Fromages de Savoie — Joseph Favre