Venice, Veneto
The most famous spring preparation of Venice: fresh young peas and Vialone Nano rice cooked together in a broth made from the pea pods themselves, enriched with pancetta and a final mantecare of butter and Parmigiano. Risi e bisi is neither a risotto (it is looser) nor a soup (it is denser) — it occupies a category uniquely its own. Traditionally served on the feast of San Marco (25 April) when the first Venetian peas of the year were ready, presented to the Doge.
Young peas and Vialone Nano rice in a broth made from their own pods — the Venetian spring celebration in a bowl, offered to the Doge, now eaten by all who know to make it only in May
{"Pea pod broth: simmer the empty pods with onion and a pinch of salt for 30 min; strain and use as the cooking liquid","Very fresh, young peas only — starchy old peas produce a muddy sweetness instead of the bright green character","Pancetta rendered first in butter; then onion; rice added and toasted briefly; pea pod broth added ladle by ladle","Fresh peas added with the last 5 min of cooking — they need very little time and must stay vivid green","The correct consistency: looser than a risotto, wetter than a pilaf — it should flow slightly when plated"}
{"A handful of pea shoots (germogli di pisello) scattered over the plated dish adds the spring perfume to the nose","The pea pod broth should be made and used the same day — it turns bitter if stored","The pancetta can be omitted for a vegetarian version — the pea pod broth is flavourful enough to stand alone"}
{"Frozen peas — they lack the bright sweetness of fresh; use fresh or cancel the dish","Risotto consistency (too thick) — risi e bisi must be all'onda (wavy) or even looser","Skipping the pod broth — the pod broth is not optional; it defines the flavour"}
La Cucina Veneziana — Giovanni Capnist