Casentino, Arezzo, Tuscany
Casentino (the Arno valley above Florence) is one of Tuscany's great porcini territories. This risotto, made in autumn at peak porcini season, is built on a foundation of both dried porcini (for depth of stock) and fresh porcini (for texture and aroma) — the two working together create a more complete expression of the mushroom than either alone. The dried porcini are simmered for the stock; the fresh porcini are sliced and added raw at the end, finishing in the hot risotto without lengthy cooking.
Double porcini intensity — dried mushrooms in the stock, fresh slices in the final minutes — creating a risotto that captures both the deep earth notes and the raw forest perfume of autumn
{"Dried porcini soaked 30 min in warm water; soaking liquid strained and used in the stock","Fresh porcini: slice in half-centimetre pieces; add to the risotto only in the final 3 minutes (they must not be overcooked)","Stock: light chicken or vegetable, blended with the dried porcini soaking liquid for depth","Soffritto in butter with a small amount of shallot (not onion — too sharp for a delicate porcini risotto)","Mantecare: butter only (no cream, no cheese) — Parmigiano is optional and divides Tuscan cooks"}
{"A few drops of aged white truffle oil (not black truffle) added at the mantecare amplifies the porcini character","The fresh porcini must be cleaned with a damp cloth, not washed — water destroys the texture","October is the prime porcini season in the Casentino — the first autumn rains bring the best specimens"}
{"Cooking fresh porcini too long — they become rubbery and lose their perfume","Discarding the porcini soaking liquid — it is the most concentrated mushroom flavour in the pot","Replacing fresh porcini with cremini or button mushrooms — the dish is only itself with true porcini"}
La Cucina Toscana — Giuliana Bonomo