Veneto foothills (Colli Euganei, Asiago, Dolomites foothills)
The definitive autumn risotto of the Veneto hills: fresh porcini (Boletus edulis) cleaned, sliced, and sautéed separately in butter and garlic until golden, combined with a classic soffritto-and-broth risotto, finished with Parmigiano and cold butter. The fresh porcini is used in two ways — some sautéed and stirred into the risotto, some placed raw-sautéed on top as a garnish for visual and textural contrast. The cooking broth must be made from the porcini's own stems and trimmings, creating a double-depth mushroom flavour.
Earth, forest, autumn — fresh porcini's extraordinary depth amplified by its own mushroom broth and the richness of Parmigiano-butter mantecatura
The porcini must be sautéed separately and fully at high heat until golden — they exude moisture initially (the steam will dilute the risotto if added wet). The mushroom broth (made from stems and trimmings) amplifies the porcini flavour to extraordinary depth — using plain vegetable or chicken broth wastes the opportunity. Some porcini are added during the risotto's cooking, more are reserved as a garnish — the contrast between melted-in and distinct pieces is the textural point. No garlic in the risotto itself — garlic only in the porcini sauté.
The peak season for fresh porcini in the Veneto is October — the post-equinox cool nights and warm days produce mushrooms of extraordinary size and flavour. The sautéing oil for the porcini should be a mix of butter and olive oil — pure butter burns at the high temperature needed, pure olive oil lacks the dairy richness. A very small amount of dried porcini (5g) rehydrated and its soaking water used as part of the broth intensifies the flavour further.
Adding wet, un-sautéed porcini directly to the risotto — they steam and dilute rather than contributing concentrated mushroom flavour. Using dried porcini instead of fresh for this preparation — a different (though valid) dish. Discarding the mushroom stems — they make the essential porcini broth. Insufficient Parmigiano in the mantecatura — porcini risotto needs dairy richness to balance the earthiness.
La Cucina Veneziana — Giuseppe Maffioli