Risotto al nero di seppia is Venice's most dramatic dish—a jet-black risotto coloured and flavoured by the ink sacs of cuttlefish (seppie), producing a plate of startling appearance and a taste of concentrated marine essence that captures the lagoon city's millennia-old relationship with the sea. The preparation follows classic risotto technique with a critical Venetian twist: cuttlefish are cleaned, their ink sacs carefully extracted and reserved (they contain the dark brown-black liquid that is the dish's soul), and the cuttlefish flesh is cut into strips or dice. A soffritto of onion (or shallot) is sweated in olive oil and butter, the cuttlefish is added and sautéed, white wine deglazes, and then Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice is toasted and the gradual addition of warm fish stock begins. The ink is stirred in partway through cooking—adding it too early causes it to break down and lose intensity; adding it too late leaves a raw, metallic taste. The finished risotto should be uniformly black (not grey or streaked), with a flavour that is briny, subtly sweet from the cuttlefish, and deeply oceanic from the ink—a taste that cannot be replicated by any other ingredient. The mantecatura uses butter (and sometimes a small amount of Parmigiano, though some purists omit cheese from seafood risotto). The consistency should be all'onda—flowing like a wave. Venetian tradition dictates that this is a winter dish, when the cuttlefish of the northern Adriatic are at their best. The ink stains everything it touches—teeth, lips, tongue—producing the spectacle of diners with blackened mouths that is a familiar sight in Venetian bacari and trattorie.
Extract ink sacs from fresh cuttlefish. Add ink partway through risotto cooking. Use Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice with fish stock. Risotto should be uniformly jet-black. Finish all'onda—flowing consistency. Butter mantecatura; cheese optional.
If fresh ink sacs are unavailable, quality packaged squid ink is acceptable but use double the amount. The cuttlefish flesh should be tender—either very briefly cooked or braised for 30+ minutes (in between is tough). A squeeze of lemon at serving brightens the marine flavour. Serve on white plates for maximum visual drama.
Using packaged squid ink instead of fresh cuttlefish ink (inferior flavour). Adding ink too early or too late. Over-cooking the cuttlefish (becomes rubbery). Under-using ink (grey instead of black). Making it too thick (should flow).
Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking; Tessa Kiros, Venezia