Treviso, Veneto — the radicchio tardivo di Treviso IGP is produced only in the Treviso area, where the winter forcing in river water tanks creates the characteristic sweetness and visual drama of the tardivo leaf. The risotto application is a natural pairing for the finest Venetian chicory.
Risotto al radicchio di Treviso uses the tardivo variety — the most prized and expensive Italian winter chicory, harvested after forcing in dark water tanks that bleach the outer leaves while the heart becomes sweetly bitter. The tardivo's long, thin leaves with distinctive white ribs and burgundy tips are first sautéed in butter until wilted and their bitterness mellows, then stirred into a Vialone Nano risotto at the mantecatura stage, turning the rice a deep burgundy-purple and flavouring it with the chicory's characteristic bitter-sweet note. A finishing of Gorgonzola (in some versions) or just Parmigiano completes the preparation.
Risotto al radicchio tardivo is dramatically coloured — deep burgundy-purple — and flavoured with the bittersweet complexity of the winter chicory: mineral, slightly bitter, with a faint sweetness from the forcing that raw radicchio lacks. The risotto cream softens the bitterness; the Parmigiano adds salt. It is an autumn and winter preparation of great elegance.
The tardivo must be prepared correctly: separate the leaves, wash well, cut into pieces. Sauté briefly in butter to wilt and concentrate flavour — this removes the raw bitterness while retaining the sweetness. The risotto technique: soffritto of white onion, add Vialone Nano (the traditional Venetian rice variety), toast, deglaze with white wine, add warm stock ladle by ladle. In the last 2 minutes of cooking, add the sautéed radicchio pieces. Mantecatura: remove from heat, add cold butter and Parmigiano (and optional Gorgonzola for richness), rest 1 minute, serve in warm bowls. The risotto should be a deep burgundy-purple with the chicory visible.
The Gorgonzola variation (a small amount of Gorgonzola naturale added at the mantecatura) produces a creamier, more complex risotto — the Gorgonzola's blue-cheese depth complements the radicchio's bitterness. The wine used for deglazing should be a Veneto white — Soave or Lugana — whose neutrality doesn't compete with the radicchio.
Using radicchio di Chioggia (round variety) instead of tardivo — the flavour profile is completely different; tardivo is essential. Not pre-cooking the radicchio — raw radicchio added directly to the risotto remains too bitter and loses its colour unevenly. Over-cooking the risotto after adding the radicchio — the colour bleeds into the rice further and the chicory pieces disintegrate.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Slow Food Editore, Veneto in Cucina