Valle d'Aosta — the risotto alla valdostana is the Italian formal restaurant version of the Fontina-in-everything Valdostana tradition. The white truffle version is associated specifically with the autumn season when Piedmont truffles reach the Aosta market.
Risotto alla valdostana is the Aosta valley's interpretation of the Italian risotto — made with Carnaroli rice, cooked in a good meat broth, and finished with a generous quantity of Fontina d'Aosta DOP stirred in at the mantecatura stage, which melts through the rice to create a preparation of extraordinary richness and string. In the most luxurious version (autumn, October-November), shaved white truffle from the Piedmont side of the valley is added at the table. The Fontina mantecatura distinguishes this risotto from all others — the cheese's mountain-herb character and its exceptional melting quality produce a consistency that butter alone cannot approach.
Risotto alla valdostana plated and shaken shows the all'onda movement — the Fontina has made the risotto silky and slightly stringy; the mountain-herb character of the cheese runs through every grain. If truffle is present, it arrives last at the table in fragrant curls. The combination of alpine cheese, mountain wine, and white truffle is one of the great expressions of northern Italian mountain cuisine.
Standard risotto technique: soffritto of shallot in butter; toast Carnaroli rice 2 minutes; add dry white wine (Blanc de Morgex from the valley) and allow to absorb. Add hot meat broth, ladle by ladle, stirring continuously, adding each ladle only when the previous is absorbed — 18-20 minutes. Off heat, mantecatura: stir in cold butter cubes and generous cubed Fontina d'Aosta DOP. Stir vigorously until the Fontina is fully melted and the risotto moves as a wave (all'onda). Rest covered 1 minute. Serve immediately on warm plates. Shave white truffle at the table if using.
The Blanc de Morgex et de la Vallée (the highest altitude white wine in Europe, from near the Mont Blanc glacier) is the ideal wine for the soffritto — its mineral, slightly austere character is perfect. Fontina d'Aosta from summer alpeggio (high pasture) production has more complex herb flavour; specifically request alpeggio Fontina from specialist cheesemongers. The risotto should be fluid enough to spread slightly when plated — Italian chefs say it should be 'all'onda' (wavy).
Fontina that is not Fontina d'Aosta DOP — the melting quality and mountain herb character are specific to genuine Fontina; Fontina padana or generic melting cheese produces a different result. Mantecatura with the risotto still on heat — the Fontina should be added off heat; on heat, it can become grainy or seize. Insufficient stirring during mantecatura — the all'onda motion requires 2-3 minutes of vigorous stirring.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Slow Food Editore, Valle d'Aosta in Cucina