Abruzzo — inland mountain provinces, L'Aquila and Chieti
Twisted pasta squares (sagne torte — pasta squares cut then twisted by pressing one corner down) combined with Borlotti beans in a hearty, smoky-fatback-based soup from the Abruzzo mountains. The pasta is handmade from flour and water, cut into 5cm squares, and each square twisted by pressing the opposite corners in opposite directions. This shape creates irregular, cupped pasta that traps the thick bean broth. Guanciale or lardo is rendered as the fat base; dried chilli provides heat; the soup is thick enough to stand a wooden spoon in.
Smoky guanciale fat, earthy Borlotti beans, dried chilli heat; the twisted pasta soaks up the bean broth and becomes as flavourful as the beans themselves — mountain winter food at its most functional
{"Make the sagne with durum semolina and water only (no egg) — the rough surface holds the broth","Twist each square immediately after cutting while the dough is still pliable — dried pasta cannot be twisted without cracking","Use dried Borlotti beans soaked overnight — the bean cooking liquid is the soup base; it should not be discarded","Blend or crush one-third of the cooked beans and return to the pot — dual creamy-chunky texture","Add the pasta directly to the bean soup and cook in the bean liquid — pasta starch thickens further"}
{"A dried peperoncino added whole to the bean cooking liquid and removed before pasta is added perfumes without visible chilli","The soup thickens considerably as it cools — always serve at the thicker end of the consistency range, as it will tighten on the plate","A drizzle of raw Abruzzo olive oil (DOP Aprutino Pescarese or Colline Teatine) over each bowl adds fragrance","Sagne torte can be made in larger batches and dried on a cloth for later use — they twist into dried form beautifully"}
{"Cutting pasta too small — 5cm squares minimum; smaller squares lose the twist shape's function","Using tinned beans — the canned liquid is too thin to provide the required soup body","Over-cooking the pasta in the soup — add pasta in the last 15 minutes only; sagne torte cook fast in the thick broth","Adding salt too early to the bean cooking — delays softening and toughens the bean skins"}
La Cucina Abruzzese (Newton Compton)