Puglia — Pasta & Primi Authority tier 2

Sagne 'Ncannulate con Sugo di Agnello Leccese

Salento, Puglia

Long, wide, twisted semolina ribbons from the Salento peninsula — sagne 'ncannulate (literally 'wound around a cane') — coiled around a thin rod to create their characteristic hollow twist, then dried and served with a slow-braised lamb shoulder ragù seasoned with bay, wild fennel, and a hit of dried chilli. The pasta is among Italy's oldest forms, predating extruded formats.

Wheaty, firm pasta with satisfying chew, blanketed in iron-rich lamb ragù perfumed with fennel and bay — the ancient pastoral cooking of the heel of Italy

{"Semolina rimacinata dough (no egg), hydrated at 50–52% with lukewarm water","Rest 30 min, then roll to 3mm thickness and cut strips 3–4cm wide, 30cm long","Twist each strip around a 6mm wooden dowel, press ends together, slide off, dry 1 hour","Lamb ragù: shoulder on the bone, browned hard, braised 2.5 hours with tomato passata and lamb stock","Finish pasta 2 min short of al dente in boiling salted water, complete in the ragù sauce"}

{"Wild fennel fronds stirred in at the end are non-negotiable for authentic Salento character","A ladleful of pasta water added to the ragù helps emulsify before the final toss","Aged ricotta salata crumbled over the top adds textural contrast and salt"}

{"Using all-purpose flour — sagne must be semolina for structural integrity","Overcooking: this thick pasta needs a true al dente bite","Ragù too thin — reduce until it coats a spoon before adding pasta"}

La Cucina Salentina — Franco Scintu

{'cuisine': 'Calabria', 'technique': 'Fileja al ferro', 'connection': 'Hand-rolled semolina pasta twisted around a rod, dried before cooking'} {'cuisine': 'Moroccan', 'technique': 'Lamb braised with wild herbs and warm spice', 'connection': 'Long-cooked lamb shoulder with fennel and bay as shared Mediterranean pastoralism'} {'cuisine': 'Basilicata', 'technique': 'Lagane e ceci', 'connection': 'Wide semolina ribbon pasta paired with a bold legume or meat sauce'}