Iberian Peninsula (Portugal and Spain)
The desalting of salt cod is not a simple rinse — it is a controlled, timed process that determines the texture, salinity, and flavour of every bacalao and bacalhau preparation that follows. The process varies depending on the thickness of the piece and the final application: thin pieces for salads may need 24 hours; thick loin sections for pil-pil or brandade need 48-72 hours; kokotxas need a different desalting profile that leaves them slightly more saline. The Iberian tradition of salt cod preservation dates to the 14th-century Basque and Portuguese fishing expeditions to the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. The preservation technique — wet salting followed by air drying — allowed cod to be transported across the Atlantic without refrigeration and created an ingredient that is simultaneously a staple of poverty and a vehicle for extraordinary technique.
Change the cold water every 8-12 hours. Keep refrigerated throughout — warm desalting accelerates bacterial growth. Thick loin pieces: 48-72 hours, 4-6 water changes. Thin flakes: 24 hours, 2-3 water changes. Test for salinity by tasting a thin slice of the raw flesh before cooking. The flesh should be lightly and evenly saline, not salty. Skin-on pieces are desalted skin-side up.
Milk desalting (soaking in milk instead of water for the final 12 hours) gives a creamier, slightly sweeter result — used for brandade and some Portuguese preparations. The desalting water is full of valuable salt and fish flavour — some cooks use it as the base for a fish stock. Bacalao from Portugal (slightly different curing style) and Spanish bacalao desalt at slightly different rates due to salt content differences.
Not changing the water frequently enough — the fish sits in its own brine and doesn't desalt. Desalting at room temperature — temperature control is critical. Not testing before cooking — under-desalted bacalao ruins the dish and wastes expensive fish. Over-desalting — leaving in water too long produces a flavourless, watery piece.
Moro by Sam and Sam Clark