Pacific saury fishing in Sanriku Coast (Iwate) and Hokkaido — seasonal fish following cold Oyashio Current; autumn tradition documented Meiji period
Sanma (Pacific saury, Cololabis saira) is Japan's most culturally beloved autumn fish — caught in massive quantities in the seas off Sanriku Coast (Iwate) and Hokkaido during the September-October southward migration, and eaten primarily as salt-grilled shioyaki that represents one of the most quintessentially Japanese sensory experiences of autumn. The fish's exceptional fat content during autumn migration (30%+ body fat) produces dramatic flame and smoke when grilled over charcoal — the visible sizzling and char marks of well-grilled sanma are a visual and aromatic festival of the season. Sanma are traditionally grilled whole (with innards intact, or gutted depending on preference), salted heavily, and served with grated daikon, a squeeze of sudachi citrus, and soy sauce — the bitter liver offering a savory depth enjoyed by connoisseurs who eat it as a delicacy while many diners remove it. The Tokyo Meguro-ku ward holds an annual sanma matsuri (sanma festival) in September where free sanma are grilled over charcoal on the street — one of the most iconic urban food festivals in Japan. Climate change has dramatically reduced sanma catch volumes in recent decades, making the fish more expensive and seasonally precious than in living memory.
Intensely rich, oily, and deeply savory with characteristic bitter liver contrast; sudachi citrus cuts the fat with floral sharpness; charcoal smoke integrates into the fat during grilling; one of Japanese cuisine's most complete seasonal flavor experiences
{"Salt generously 10-20 minutes before grilling — draws moisture for crispier skin while seasoning the flesh","Grill whole with charcoal at moderate heat — the fat dripping onto coals creates characteristic aromatic flame","Flip once at 7-8 minutes — sanma is not turned repeatedly; single flip achieves proper bilateral caramelization","Liver (hara no wata) is either intact-served or removed before service based on preference — bitter, but prized","Sudachi citrus (not lemon) is the traditional accompaniment — different aromatic profile essential to the pairing","Grated daikon (momiji oroshi with togarashi) provides astringent counterpoint to the rich fatty fish"}
{"Sanma season is narrow — peak fat content occurs exactly during September-October; outside this window fish is leaner and less characteristic","Scale sanma before grilling — small scales, but removing them prevents any unpleasant texture on grilled skin","A slice of kombu placed under whole sanma during initial grilling prevents sticking and adds subtle sea flavor","Sanma sanwa (whole fish canned in soy) are year-round substitute — serve with rice porridge in winter"}
{"Over-salting early and not rinsing — excessive surface salt burns before caramelizing during grilling","Using lemon instead of sudachi — sudachi's specific citrus oil profile is the correct traditional pairing","Grilling frozen sanma — the fat quality of previously frozen sanma produces poor, leaky results versus fresh autumn fish","Discarding grill smoke as a problem — the sanma fat smoke aroma is the essential atmospheric element of the preparation"}
Japanese Farm Food - Nancy Singleton Hachisu