Sanuki Province (Kagawa Prefecture), Shikoku, Japan. Udon arrived from China and was developed in Kagawa with local spring wheat and water. The modern Sanuki udon culture was catalysed by the 1980s 'udon boom' when food writers documented Kagawa's extraordinary udon shop density.
Sanuki udon (from Sanuki Province, now Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku) is Japan's most celebrated udon style — thick, square-edged, and famous for its extreme chewiness (koshi) and smooth, silky surface. Kagawa Prefecture is sometimes called 'udon prefecture' — with over 700 udon shops for a population under 1 million, the highest udon-shop density in Japan. The Sanuki style is defined by its noodle (not its broth) — the same noodle appears in different preparations (kake udon with hot dashi broth, cold zaru udon with dipping sauce, kamaage udon from the cooking water, and釜玉 kamatama with raw egg). The noodle-first philosophy contrasts with other udon traditions where broth is primary.
Sanuki udon's appeal is primarily textural — the koshi (chewiness) is the flavour event. The noodle's thick, springy resistance followed by clean, satisfying yield is what devotees seek. The flavour is wheat-forward and clean, providing the canvas for broth or sauce. In kamatama (hot noodle with raw egg), the egg's richness coats the noodle and creates the simplest possible preparation that showcases the noodle's quality.
The key to Sanuki koshi is the extended kneading and resting protocol: high-protein wheat flour (ideally ASW — Australian Standard White) is mixed with salt and water, kneaded initially, then placed in a plastic bag and literally foot-kneaded (fumikomi-ashi) — stepping on the dough for 5–10 minutes with full body weight. This develops gluten extremely efficiently. The dough rests for 1–2 hours. Rolling to exactly 3–4mm thickness. Square cutting (not round) — the flat edges create the characteristic surface texture that holds broth differently than round noodles. Cooking in abundant boiling water for 12–15 minutes until the thick noodles are fully cooked through.
The foot-kneading (fumikomi) is not theatre — it's the most efficient way to develop gluten in a thick, stiff udon dough. The pressure of body weight distributed evenly over a large surface area develops the gluten matrix more effectively and uniformly than hand-kneading. At Shikoku's most celebrated udon shops, the noodle-making is visible from the dining room and the dough preparation begins hours before opening. The texture test: a properly made Sanuki udon has transparent, springy edges that resist briefly before yielding to the bite.
Insufficient kneading — the characteristic koshi requires extended gluten development. Under-resting the dough — the gluten must relax for smooth rolling. Cutting too thin — Sanuki noodles should be thick (3–4mm square); thin noodles lack the characteristic chew. Cooking in insufficient water — the noodles need plenty of water to maintain temperature when added. Not rinsing under cold water after cooking for cold preparations — this removes surface starch and firms the texture.
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art — Shizuo Tsuji