Mantua, Lombardy
Mantua's crumble cake — a coarse-textured shortbread made from a mixture of coarse maize flour (farina gialla grossa), plain flour, butter, lard, sugar, toasted almonds, eggs, vanilla, and lemon zest. Unlike standard shortbread which is pressed and cut, sbrisolona ('sbrisolare' = to crumble) is deliberately crumbled — the dough is made by rubbing fat into flour until it resembles coarse crumbs, then this mixture is pressed loosely into the pan without cohesion. It bakes into a rough, fragile sheet that must be broken by hand at the table — cutting with a knife is wrong.
Coarse maize-and-almond crumble; buttery-lard richness; lemon and vanilla fragrance; satisfying granular texture; rustic Mantuan charm
{"50% maize flour (coarse ground) and 50% plain flour — the coarseness of the maize flour is what creates the distinctive crumble texture","Both butter and lard — the combination of different fats creates a more complex, crumbly texture than either alone","Rub fat into flour by hand until it forms rough, irregular crumbs — no cohesion; it should not come together into a dough","Loose-press the crumb mixture into the pan — press lightly but leave it rough and uneven; don't compact it smooth","Break at table by pressing with a blunt object (wooden spoon handle) — never cut; the crumble shatter is the experience"}
{"Toasted almonds are traditional — some Mantuan versions use half almonds and half hazelnuts","The surface of the sbrisolona can be sprinkled with coarse sugar before baking for additional texture","Sbrisolona keeps for 2 weeks at room temperature in an airtight container — it actually improves over several days","Serve with Moscato d'Asti or sweet Lambrusco — the gentle sweetness of these wines matches the buttery, nutty cake"}
{"Using only butter — the lard is essential for the specific crumble texture","Working the dough until cohesive — sbrisolona should not form a smooth dough; loose crumbs pressed in the pan","Fine maize flour (polenta fine) — must be coarse maize flour for the correct granular texture in the finished cake","Cutting with a knife — the cake is meant to shatter into rough pieces; cutting gives a false impression of the texture"}
La Cucina della Lombardia — Ottorina Perna Bozzi