Sicily — Marsala, Trapani province
Sicily's contribution to Italian classics — thin veal escalopes pan-fried in butter until golden, then deglazed with dry Marsala wine (the wine produced around Marsala in western Sicily) and reduced to a syrupy glaze. The Marsala itself, a fortified wine with caramelised-sugar and dried-fruit complexity, is the entire sauce — no stock, no cream, just Marsala, veal juices, and butter. The dish was taken to America by Italian immigrants and became 'Chicken Marsala', but the original is veal.
Caramelised veal fond, nutty-dried-fruit Marsala, butter richness — quick, elegant, the fortified wine of western Sicily transformed into a sauce
{"Veal escalopes: cut 5mm thick and beaten to 3mm with a meat mallet — this thinness is essential for the 90-second cooking time that keeps the veal tender","Dry Marsala vergine (not sweet Marsala) is the only appropriate choice — sweet Marsala produces an unbalanced, sugary sauce","Cooking sequence: flour the veal lightly, cook in butter 45 seconds per side until golden, remove veal, add Marsala to the same pan, reduce by half over high heat","Veal returns to the pan off heat — it finishes gently in the residual warmth of the sauce without toughening","A cold knob of butter added to the Marsala reduction off heat creates the glossy, silky pan sauce"}
{"A sliced mushroom (preferably porcini) added to the butter before the veal produces the classic American-Italian variation","The pan used for the veal must not be washed before adding the Marsala — the brown fond is the sauce","For a deeper sauce: add 50ml of the veal's braising liquid or a spoon of aged balsamic to the Marsala reduction","Serve immediately — scaloppine al Marsala deteriorate within 5 minutes as the veal continues to cook in residual heat"}
{"Sweet Marsala — produces a saccharine, flat sauce","Thick veal — does not cook through in the required time; the escalopes must be thin","Re-cooking the veal in the sauce — toughens the escalopes; they must rest in the sauce off heat","Under-reducing the Marsala — the sauce must reduce to a syrupy consistency; too thin and it runs off the veal"}
La Cucina Siciliana di Vuccirìa — Pino Correnti (Mursia)