Puglia — throughout the region, with regional variations in shape (Bari favors the ring; Lecce favors the dove form; Foggia and Taranto have their own variants). Scarcelle are documented in Pugliese Easter traditions from at least the 16th century.
Scarcelle (singular: scarcella) are the defining Easter biscuit of Puglia: large, decorated biscuit-pastries made from a short, egg-and-lard enriched dough, shaped into rings, baskets, doves, or traditional symbols of spring and resurrection, with raw eggs baked into the dough (the eggs cook during baking and the shell remains as decoration). They are glazed with a thick royal icing and decorated with coloured sugar confetti. The scarcella is given as a gift — a grandmother to grandchildren, a fiancée to her betrothed — and the size and decoration reflect the importance of the relationship. They are simultaneously a pastry, a seasonal symbol, and a social act.
Scarcella dough is short, slightly lemon-scented, and mildly sweet — it is a vehicle for the glazing and decoration as much as a flavour experience. The royal icing is sweet and clean. The boiled egg inside, fully cooked in its shell during baking, has a slightly different texture from conventionally boiled eggs — slightly firmer, slightly drier. The combination is more symbolic than gastronomic.
The dough: 500g 00 flour, 3 eggs, 150g sugar, 100g lard (or butter), lemon zest, a pinch of baking powder, and enough milk to bind. Knead until smooth and pliable — the dough should be soft enough to shape. Form into rings (the basic shape) or more complex forms. Nestle a raw whole egg (in shell, unbroken) into the shaped dough — pressed in so it's secure. Bake at 170°C for 20-25 minutes until golden. The egg inside will cook fully. Cool completely before glazing. Glaze with royal icing (icing sugar, egg white, lemon juice) — apply thickly. Decorate immediately with coloured sugar confetti (the small round ones in multiple colours).
The raw egg baked into the scarcella is a symbol of new life — in the traditional scarcella given to children, the number of eggs corresponds to the recipient's importance (three eggs for a beloved grandchild). The coloured confetti pressed into the wet icing before it sets must go on immediately — royal icing sets quickly. The lemon zest in the dough is essential — without it the biscuit is flat-flavoured.
Dough too soft — the scarcella must hold its shape during baking. Not pressing the egg securely — it rolls off during baking. Royal icing too thin — a thick, opaque white coating is traditional; thin icing looks incomplete. Eating before the icing has set — allow 30-60 minutes for the royal icing to set completely.
Carol Field, The Italian Baker; Slow Food Editore, Puglia in Cucina