Tuscany (Chianti region, September-October only)
Tuscany's September harvest flatbread: a yeasted, oil-enriched flatbread dough pressed into two layers in a baking tray with Sangiovese or Canaiolo wine grapes (or small black grapes, seeds and all) pressed into both layers, drizzled generously with olive oil, scattered with sugar, rosemary, and black pepper, then baked until the bread is golden, the grapes have burst and caramelised, and the sugar has formed a golden crust. Made only during the September-October vendemmia (grape harvest) when the small wine grapes are available. The seed bitterness from the crushed grapes is the dish's defining note.
Golden, oil-rich, sweet from caramelised grapes and sugar, with the bitter note of grape seeds and the resinous freshness of rosemary — exclusively September, entirely unreproducible
Wine grapes (not table grapes) must be used — they are smaller, more intensely flavoured, higher in acid, and their bitter seeds are an intended flavour element. The layered construction (dough, grapes, dough, grapes) ensures grapes in every bite — not just on top. The olive oil must be generous on both the top and bottom layers. The sugar adds caramelisation but must not dominate — the bread should be savoury-sweet-bitter, not a pastry.
The rosemary and black pepper are added only to the top layer — they perfume the crust but would add too much bitterness if cooked inside the bread. For the absolute finest version: use Canaiolo grapes (small, intensely flavoured) from Chianti vineyards in September. The schiacciata all'uva is eaten the same day — it stales rapidly as the grape juice hydrates the bread and makes the crust soggy overnight.
Using seedless table grapes — too sweet, no bitterness, too much juice. Single layer of grapes on top only — produces a topped bread rather than the correct layered structure. Insufficient olive oil — the flatbread must be well-oiled for the characteristic richness. Not pressing the grapes firmly into the dough — they should be embedded, not just resting on the surface.
La Cucina Toscana — Giovanni Righi Parenti