Sardinia — Pastry & Dolci Authority tier 1

Seadas con Miele — Fried Cheese and Lemon Pastry with Warm Honey

Sardinia — seadas are documented from the 16th century in Sardinian sources. The preparation was originally a savoury dish (without honey, or with very little); the sweet version with corbezzolo honey became the dominant modern preparation. The fresh Pecorino filling reflects Sardinia's ancient cheese-making tradition.

Seadas (or sebadas) are the most celebrated Sardinian dessert — large discs of pasta (made with fine semolina and lard) filled with fresh pecorino (or a mix of fresh pecorino and ricotta) mixed with lemon zest, fried in lard or olive oil until golden and blistered, and immediately dressed at the table with warm Sardinian honey (corbezzolo honey — the bitter honey from the strawberry tree that grows throughout the island's macchia, or acacia honey for a sweeter version). The contrast of the hot, slightly salty, cheese-filled pastry with the warm, intensely aromatic honey is the experience. The lemon zest in the filling cuts the richness of the cheese; the honey sweetens and perfumes the exterior.

Seadas from the oil, drenched with warm corbezzolo honey, are one of the great hot dessert experiences in Italian cooking — the thin, golden pastry shell cracks to reveal the molten, lemon-scented cheese within; the honey, bitter and aromatic, runs into every crack. The salty-sour cheese against the sweet-bitter honey produces a flavour combination of considerable complexity from four ingredients.

Pasta dough: semola rimacinata, rendered lard, warm water, salt — mix to a smooth, firm dough; rest 30 minutes. Filling: grate or crumble very fresh, slightly sour Pecorino Sardo fresco (or Sardinian fresh cheese) with generous lemon zest. Roll dough thin (2mm). Cut circles (10-12cm diameter). Place filling in centre; cover with second circle; seal by pressing. Pinch edges to create a rope seal. Fry in abundant lard or olive oil at 175°C until golden and slightly puffed on both sides (3-4 minutes). Drain; dress immediately with warm corbezzolo honey or local wildflower honey. Eat immediately.

Corbezzolo (strawberry tree) honey is intensely bitter with an aromatic, slightly medicinal character that is the traditional pairing; it is available from Sardinian producers online. Acacia honey is a sweeter, milder alternative. The seadas should be eaten within 2 minutes of frying — the contrast of hot, crispy pastry and warm honey is lost as they cool. Fresh Sardinian Pecorino fresco (acidic, fresh) is the correct cheese; do not use aged Pecorino.

Filling not sour enough — the filling must be made with genuine Sardinian fresh Pecorino that has slight sourness; commercial mild ricotta produces a flat seada. Honey too cold — the honey must be warm (heated gently) to flow over the pastry; cold honey sits on top without integrating. Frying at wrong temperature — too cool and the pastry absorbs oil; too hot and the outside browns before the cheese melts.

Slow Food Editore, Sardinia in Cucina; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy

{'cuisine': 'Greek', 'technique': 'Tiropita Fried / Loukoumades with Honey', 'connection': 'Fried cheese pastry immediately dressed with warm honey — the Greek tradition of fried cheese-filled pastries with honey (including certain regional variations) and the Sardinian seadas share the principle of hot-fried cheese pastry dressed with warm honey; the sweet-salty contrast from the slightly sour cheese against the honey is common to both traditions'} {'cuisine': 'Turkish', 'technique': 'Peynirli Börek (Fried Cheese Börek)', 'connection': 'Fried thin-pastry filled with fresh white cheese — the Turkish fried peynirli börek and the Sardinian seadas share the thin-pastry-fried-with-fresh-cheese construction; the Sardinian version adds the sweet honey finish that the Turkish version lacks; both are the defining fried cheese pastry of their respective traditions'}