Sardinia
Sardinia's emblematic fried cheese pastry: discs of thin semolina pastry filled with young pecorino or fresh casu axedu (sour fresh cheese), sealed and deep-fried in lard until golden and puffy, then drizzled immediately with bitter corbezzolo (strawberry-tree) honey. The interplay of hot melted tangy cheese against the bitter honey is the defining flavour contrast. Served as a dessert but also as an antipasto in traditional Sardinian meals. The honey must be bitter-aromatic corbezzolo — sweet wildflower honey makes the dish cloying.
Hot melted tangy cheese; crisp semolina pastry; intense bitter honey contrast; lemon brightness; deeply satisfying
{"Pastry dough: fine semolina, lard, water — thin enough to almost see through when rolled","Filling: fresh casu axedu or young pecorino mixed with lemon zest — the cheese should be semi-firm, not liquid","Seal pastry tightly with fork crimping — any gap causes cheese to leak into frying oil","Fry in lard at 170°C until golden and puffed — olive oil changes the flavour; lard gives correct crispness","Drizzle with corbezzolo honey immediately at service while cheese is still molten"}
{"Corbezzolo honey is harvested in November from strawberry tree flowers — it has a distinctive bitter-aromatic quality","A small amount of orange zest with the lemon zest in the filling is a Cagliari tradition","Seadas can be prepared ahead and fried to order — filling them in advance and refrigerating works well","If corbezzolo honey is unavailable, chestnut honey is the best substitute for bitterness level"}
{"Using aged pecorino — it doesn't melt properly and has too strong a flavour","Sealing poorly — cheese erupts in the oil creating a mess and uneven pastry","Using sweet honey — the bitterness of corbezzolo is the essential counterpoint to the rich fried cheese","Serving cold — the cheese solidifies and loses the textural contrast that defines the dish"}
La Cucina Sarda — Tonino Pirellas