Alice Waters and Chez Panisse in Berkeley did not invent seasonal cooking — it is the oldest approach to food in human history. What Waters did was make it radical in the context of 1970s American industrialised food culture, and articulate it as a culinary philosophy with specific technical implications: that the quality of the ingredient determines the quality of the dish more than any technique, and that a perfect ingredient cooked simply will always outperform an inferior ingredient cooked elaborately.
A cooking philosophy built on the principle that the peak-season ingredient is the non-negotiable starting point — all technique decisions follow from the ingredient's quality and character rather than preceding it. The simplest preparation that expresses the ingredient at its best is always correct.
Seasonal thinking produces dishes that taste completely of their main ingredient — a strawberry dessert that tastes profoundly of strawberry, a lamb dish that tastes profoundly of spring lamb. This sounds obvious until it is experienced alongside dishes that obscure their ingredients with technique. The difference is immediate and unmistakable.
PAULA WOLFERT (continued) + CHEZ PANISSE