Japan — sesame cultivation since the Yayoi period through Chinese influence; sesame oil production established in Nara period; suribachi grinding tradition throughout Japanese culinary history
Japan uses sesame (goma) in a remarkable range of forms, each with distinct flavour profiles, applications, and processing levels. The sesame hierarchy from least to most processed: raw white sesame seeds (shiro goma, very mild, used for salads); lightly toasted white sesame (iri-goma, aromatic, used for finishing); deeply toasted black sesame (kuro goma, bitter, intense, for wagashi and rice); neri-goma (sesame paste, stone-ground raw white sesame to a thick paste similar to tahini but with a distinct Japanese character); pure sesame oil (extracted from roasted sesame, the finishing oil of Japanese cooking); and blended sesame oil (Chinese-style dark toasted sesame used in gyoza dipping sauce and ramen). Understanding which form is appropriate to each application is fundamental to Japanese cooking.
White toasted: mild, warm, nutty; black: bitter, intense, complex; neri-goma: rich, creamy, roasted; sesame oil: aromatic, warm, deeply toasted — each a distinct sensory register
Toast sesame seeds in a dry pan just before use — pre-toasted seeds are less aromatic. Shake continuously over medium heat until the seeds begin to pop and turn golden (white) or deepen (black). Grind in a suribachi mortar for maximum aroma release. Neri-goma should be stirred before use — the oil separates on standing. Pure Japanese sesame oil should be used as a finishing oil only, not for high-heat cooking — its smoke point is moderate and its complex aromatic compounds degrade at high heat.
Toss freshly toasted sesame seeds in a suribachi — crushing half while leaving half whole creates interesting textural contrast in salad dressings. The best Japanese sesame oil comes from Kadoya company or from small artisan producers in Kyoto who cold-press unroasted sesame for maximum nutritional content and lighter flavour. Black sesame neri-goma (kurogoma paste) makes exceptional ice cream and wagashi fillings — its deep, slightly bitter richness is extraordinary in sweet contexts. Store sesame oil in the refrigerator after opening to prevent rancidity.
Using pre-ground sesame from a jar without toasting fresh — the aromatic compounds dissipate rapidly once ground. Over-toasting sesame seeds until burnt — the line between deeply toasted and burnt is narrow. Substituting Chinese dark sesame oil for Japanese sesame oil in delicate preparations — Chinese sesame oil is significantly stronger and more robustly flavoured. Treating neri-goma and tahini as identical — Japanese neri-goma from domestically grown sesame has a noticeably sweeter, cleaner character than Middle Eastern tahini.
Tsuji, Shizuo — Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art; Hosking, Richard — A Dictionary of Japanese Food