Sformato di Zucca alla Mantovana con Mostarda

Mantova, Lombardia

The Mantovano approach to pumpkin is distinctive: the squat, orange-fleshed Marina di Chioggia pumpkin is roasted until the sugar concentrates, then puréed and combined with egg, Parmigiano, and a hint of amaretti biscuit — a subtle touch borrowed from the Mantovano tortellini di zucca filling tradition. Poured into buttered moulds and baked in a bain-marie until set, turned out and served warm with Mostarda di Cremona. The amaretti and pumpkin sweetness against the fiery mustard of the mostarda is one of the most characterful flavour combinations in Lombard cooking.

• Pumpkin purée baked in a mould and served with a sauce — the French bain-marie sformato technique → Timbale de potiron au beurre noisette French
• Sweetened roasted pumpkin purée baked in a vessel — the New World adaptation of the same Old World pumpkin instinct → Pumpkin pie (sweetened pumpkin custard) American
• Pumpkin incorporated into an egg custard steamed until set — the East Asian parallel to the Italian sformato → Kabocha chawan mushi (pumpkin egg custard) Japanese

Sweet, dense pumpkin with a whisper of amaretti biscuit, baked to a silky custard and cut through by the fire of candied fruit mostarda — the Mantovano sweet-hot-savory harmony in a single mould