Shanghai — Jiangnan New Year tradition
A signature Shanghai cold appetiser and New Year dish: grass carp sections marinated in soy, rice wine, and aromatics, deep-fried until golden, then immediately submerged in a warm sweet-savoury broth (with dark soy, rock sugar, Shaoxing wine, five-spice, star anise) which penetrates and glazes the fish. Finished with sesame oil and often sesame seeds. Despite the name, smoking is not actually used — the dark glaze creates the 'smoked' appearance.
Sweet-savoury-caramelised glaze over a crispy fish exterior; the deep-frying then quick braze creates a layered flavour that is uniquely Shanghainese — restrained but satisfying
{"Fish: thick cross-sections of grass carp or mackerel; marinate in soy, rice wine, ginger, sugar 30 minutes","Deep-fry at 180°C until deeply golden and just cooked through","Immediately transfer hot fish to warm glaze broth (not boiling) — hot fish absorbs the braze rapidly","Rest in glaze 10–20 minutes; remove and arrange; drizzle with sesame oil"}
{"The glaze broth can be reused and actually improves with each batch — add fresh aromatics and top up with soy/wine/sugar as needed","Served at room temperature as part of a cold platter — the flavours develop fully as it cools","Best fish: large grass carp cut 2–3cm thick cross-sections; the thick skin crisps well during deep-frying"}
{"Placing fish in cold glaze — the temperature differential causes the glaze to pool rather than absorb","Over-marinating before frying — excess liquid prevents the fish from frying properly (spits badly in oil)","Using fillets instead of cross-sections — the skin and bone structure helps the piece hold together"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop