Shanghai — possibly the most emblematic Shanghai noodle; the dish is served in nearly every Shanghai noodle shop
Cong you ban mian: Shanghai's most minimalist noodle — thin noodles dressed with scallion-infused oil (made by slow-frying spring onions until crispy and dark), dark soy, and light soy. Nothing else. The entire flavour comes from the quality of the oil and the correct noodle-to-sauce ratio. A dish of extraordinary simplicity that requires perfect execution.
Deeply scallion-sweet oil, savoury soy, minimal — the Shanghainese lesson in restraint and quality
{"Scallion oil: spring onions slow-fried in neutral oil from cold until deep golden-brown and crispy — this takes 25–30 minutes","The oil must absorb the full flavour and colour of the scallions before straining","Noodle-to-sauce ratio: barely dressed — about 1 tablespoon sauce per serving","Noodles must be al dente — thin alkaline wheat noodles (similar to ramen noodles)"}
{"Keep the fried scallion crisps — scatter over the noodles as garnish","Dark soy provides colour and sweetness; light soy provides the salt — both are necessary","Add a few drops of sesame oil right before serving for additional fragrance"}
{"Rushing the scallion-frying stage — under-fried scallions produce pale, under-flavoured oil","Over-dressing — the noodles should be lightly coated, not swimming in sauce","Using dried noodles from a packet without the alkaline character — fresh thin noodles are far superior"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop