Shanghai/Jiangnan — a fixture of Shanghainese cold dish platters; particularly associated with Songhu flavour (a Shanghai restaurant district)
Shanghai xun yu: fried then smoke-glazed fish (typically grass carp or mackerel) — a defining Shanghainese cold dish and banquet starter. The fish is first marinated in five spice, soy, and Shaoxing wine, deep-fried until crispy, then briefly immersed in a hot glaze of dark soy, rock sugar, vinegar, and Chinese five spice, which creates a lacquered, smoke-infused surface.
Sweet, spiced, dark caramelised coating, tender fish — quintessentially Shanghainese in its sweet-savoury balance
{"Fry fish at 180°C until golden and firm — the frying step creates the base structure","The hot sugar glaze must be prepared separately — immerse fried fish briefly, do not cook in the glaze","The 'smoking' in this dish comes from the hot caramelised sugar and spiced soy coating — not actual wood smoke","Serve at room temperature — not hot, not cold — for ideal texture"}
{"The glaze should coat the fish in a thin, even layer — not pool","Grass carp is traditional; mackerel works beautifully for oilier, richer flavour","Make a day ahead — the glaze penetrates and deepens overnight"}
{"Confusing this with actual wood-smoked fish — the technique is different","Cooking the fish in the glaze — it becomes too soft","Serving directly from refrigerator — the caramelised coating hardens when cold"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop