Shikoku Island, Japan — pilgrimage culture established in 9th century CE; food traditions evolved continuously to present day
The Shikoku pilgrimage (Ohenro-san) — an 1,200km circuit of 88 Buddhist temples associated with the monk Kobo Daishi — has generated a unique food culture around the concept of settai (charitable food offering to pilgrims). Locals along the route offer henro (pilgrims) food, drink, and supplies as an act of merit and welcome, creating a living tradition of hospitality and generosity that has operated continuously for over 1,000 years. The food of settai reflects Shikoku's four-prefecture regional character: the distinctive sweet miso (Awa style from Tokushima), sudachi citrus that grows throughout the island, katsuo (bonito) from Tosa's powerful Pacific fishing tradition, and Ehime's extraordinary citrus diversity. Shikoku's culinary signature is the confrontation between the powerful dashi culture of Kochi (katsuo-dashi of exceptional intensity), the sweet miso traditions of Tokushima, the soy and udon culture of Kagawa (Sanuki udon — thin, firm, with intense dashi), and Ehime's seafood-forward cuisine centred on sea bream. The pilgrimage route food is also marked by the practical — simple, nourishing foods that sustain long-distance walking, featuring rice balls, miso soups, pickled vegetables, and local sweet confections at temple gate shops. The spiritual dimension of eating on pilgrimage — eating as part of a daily practice of walking, praying, and accepting offering — represents a distinctive Japanese integration of food, body, and spirit.
Shikoku's food is characterised by intense primary flavours — the raw power of katsuo dashi, the clean acid of sudachi, the firm resistance of Sanuki udon noodle — reflecting a prefectural cooking identity that privileges directness and regional pride over refinement.
Settai etiquette requires acceptance with gratitude — refusing settai is considered disrespectful to the offering spirit. Pilgrimage food values sustenance, seasonality, and regional specificity over sophistication. Sanuki udon demands specific flour (high-gluten Asa wheat traditionally), extended foot-kneading, and resting — the technique produces udon of distinctive firm bite and smooth surface unlike any other regional style.
Kochi's katsuo tataki (seared skipjack tuna) is the definitive expression of Shikoku's powerful dashi culture — seek the authentic preparation with fresh katsuo, only lightly seared, served with ponzu, grated ginger, and tosa-joyu (locally produced soy). Sudachi citrus from Tokushima is one of Japan's most versatile — its aroma is lighter and more floral than yuzu, making it ideal for delicate fish preparations, cold udon, and as a finishing citrus for clear soups. Kagawa's Sanuki udon culture is total: standing udon shops (tachigui udon), DIY udon factories where you cook your own, family-made udon served at farm tables — study it as a regional food culture with few global equivalents in its hyper-specialisation around a single noodle.
Approaching Shikoku food culture as merely regional Japanese cuisine misses its spiritual and social context — the food is inseparable from the pilgrimage practice. Attempting Sanuki udon technique without the proper flour produces an imitation of the texture impossible to achieve with standard flour.
Japanese Farm Food — Nancy Singleton Hachisu