Kōyasan (Mount Kōya) and Zen temple traditions, Japan. Developed within shōjin ryōri as a protein-rich, satisfying preparation that uses sesame (a temple garden crop) as a substitute for the soybean tofu from which Buddhist vegetarians are not restricted but which is made differently in this context.
Goma-dōfu (sesame tofu) is one of shōjin ryōri's most celebrated preparations — a silken block made not from soybeans but from sesame paste (neri-goma) and kuzu starch, set without heat setting into a smooth, firm, ivory-white block. It is tofu in form and function but sesame in identity — a Buddhist temple food that demonstrates the creativity of vegetarian cooking within strict constraints. Served chilled with a tiny brushing of wasabi and a pool of light dashi-soy, goma-dōfu is simultaneously a study in restraint and a remarkable flavour concentration.
Goma-dōfu's flavour is a pure expression of sesame — rich, nutty, with a subtle bitterness offset by the kuzu's clean starch backdrop. The texture is the revelation: smooth as the finest silken tofu, firm enough to hold its shape, yielding completely on the palate. Against the cool, delicate dashi-soy, and a small amount of wasabi's volatile heat, the combination is restrained and deeply satisfying — temple food at its most refined.
Process: mix neri-goma (sesame paste) with kuzu powder and dashi (kombu dashi for shōjin; konbu-katsuobushi dashi for secular versions). Heat slowly over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens into a smooth, heavy paste that pulls away from the sides of the pan (about 15–20 minutes of continuous stirring). Pour into moulds, cool to room temperature, then refrigerate. The kuzu sets firm at room temperature and chilled. The ratio of sesame to kuzu determines the texture — higher sesame creates a richer, slightly softer product; higher kuzu creates a firmer, cleaner texture.
At Kōyasan (Mount Kōya), the world's greatest concentration of shōjin ryōri masters, goma-dōfu is made with white sesame paste of the highest quality and Kōyasan spring water. The precision of stirring — always in the same direction, maintaining even heat — is a meditative practice as much as a cooking technique. The wasabi condiment is essential: its volatile heat and aromatic compounds provide the ideal contrast to the sesame's richness. At the highest level, a tiny brush of fresh-grated wasabi (not paste) is placed directly on the surface and the diner tastes both elements in a single bite.
Stopping stirring during cooking — the mixture scorches instantly on the bottom if unstirred. Insufficient cooking — an undercooked goma-dōfu won't set properly and will be grainy. Using cornstarch instead of kuzu — cornstarch sets differently (more opaque, slightly different texture) and lacks kuzu's translucent quality. Serving too cold — at refrigerator temperature, goma-dōfu is too firm; it should rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before service.
Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art — Shizuo Tsuji; Preserving the Japanese Way — Nancy Singleton Hachisu