Sichuan Province
Sichuan cold dish of steamed or roasted aubergine beaten with a wooden club (bang bang) to create a fibrous texture, then dressed with garlic, sesame paste, Sichuan chilli oil, vinegar, and spring onion. The fibrous, pulled texture of the beaten aubergine absorbs the dressing differently than cut or mashed aubergine.
Smoky aubergine (if flame-roasted) absorbing the layered Sichuan cold dressing — the vegetable becomes a vehicle for the complex sauce
{"Aubergine roasted directly over flame or steamed until very tender throughout","Beat rather than chop — use a wooden rolling pin or club to break down fibers while maintaining some texture","Pull aubergine into strands before dressing — the pulled texture is characteristic","Dress just before serving — beaten aubergine oxidises and can become waterlogged if left too long in dressing"}
{"Chinese long aubergine (Japanese eggplant) gives best texture; Italian varieties also work","The dressing is almost identical to liang mian dressing — the Sichuan pantry basics cover both","Add toasted sesame seeds for additional texture"}
{"Chopping instead of beating — loses the characteristic fibrous, pulled texture","Using thin or seedy aubergine varieties — needs the large, dense variety","Not draining excess liquid after steaming — dilutes the dressing"}
Land of Plenty — Fuchsia Dunlop