Sichuan Province
Hui guo rou (回锅肉) — 'back to the wok' pork — is quintessential Sichuan home cooking. Pork belly is first simmered whole with ginger and Shaoxing wine until cooked through, then sliced and returned to a smoking-hot wok with doubanjiang, fermented black beans, and garlic sprouts (suan miao). The fat renders in the second cooking, making the skin slightly crunchy while the inside remains tender.
Robust spicy-savory-slightly sweet from doubanjiang; rich pork fat; garlic sprout freshness cuts richness
{"First cook: poach whole with aromatics just until chopstick passes through — slightly underdone","Refrigerate overnight before slicing — cold firm pork cuts cleanly into thin slices","Wok temperature must be maximum for second cook — fat needs to render and blister","Doubanjiang fried dry in wok before adding pork — removes excess moisture","Garlic sprouts (suan miao) added last — they should retain crunch and green colour"}
{"Skin-on pork belly essential — skin provides textural contrast when blistered","The 'lamp shade' shape of each slice is traditional — fold the meat as you place it in wok","Broad bean doubanjiang from Pixian county (PI county) is mandatory for authentic flavour"}
{"Not refrigerating before slicing — warm pork tears rather than slices cleanly","Overcooking the second time — the twice-cooked concept is about efficiency, not double cooking","Substituting scallion for garlic sprouts — the sulphur compounds are different and the result less aromatic"}
The Food of Sichuan — Fuchsia Dunlop