Molise — the cicerchiata/struffoli tradition is pan-southern-Italian, but the Molisano variation (signorelle) has regional character in the lard-and-wine dough. The preparation is documented throughout the former Kingdom of the Two Sicilies as the standard Carnival and Christmas fried dough.
Signorelle (also called cicerchiata in Molise) are the Carnival and Christmas fried dough preparation: small balls of simple dough (flour, eggs, lard, white wine, sugar, and a pinch of baking soda) fried in lard until golden and puffed, then coated in honey and piled into a mound or formed into a ring — the honey sets as it cools, binding the fried dough balls into a sticky, honeyed mass that is broken apart at the table. The preparation is identical in concept to the Neapolitan struffoli and the Abruzzese cicerchiata, and represents the same ancient tradition of fried dough with honey as the primary winter festival sweet of the Apennine tradition.
Signorelle are both festive and completely satisfying — the fried dough balls are crisp, puffed, and yielding; the honey coating sets slightly as it cools, making the cluster sticky and sweet; each ball has a slightly crunchy honey exterior and a soft interior. The whole mass tastes of lard, honey, and white wine — the three ingredients of the Molisano Carnival table.
The dough: 300g flour, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon lard, 1 tablespoon sugar, 50ml white wine, a pinch of baking soda. Mix to a smooth, firm dough — not sticky. Roll into ropes (pencil-thick), cut into pieces (1cm), roll each piece into a small ball. Fry in lard at 170°C until golden and puffed (2-3 minutes). Remove and drain. In a wide pan, warm honey with a small amount of water until fluid. Add the fried dough balls and toss to coat completely. Pile onto a serving plate or form into a ring. Decorate with coloured sugar confetti or hundreds-and-thousands. Allow to cool and set — the honey solidifies and holds the mass together.
The addition of orange zest to the dough (a modern improvement in some families) adds a citrus freshness that complements the honey. The signorelle ring is made by forming the honey-coated balls around an oiled round cutter or a bottle, then removing it when the honey has set. The communal breaking apart of the ring at the table is part of the tradition.
Oil temperature too low — the balls absorb fat; they must fry quickly. Dough too large — small, uniform balls fry evenly; large pieces are raw inside. Honey too hot when coating — boiling honey sets immediately and coats unevenly. Not coating immediately after frying — cool balls don't absorb the honey properly.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Carol Field, The Italian Baker