Almeirim, Ribatejo, Portugal
The stone soup of the Ribatejo — a hearty bean and sausage soup whose name comes from the Portuguese folk tale of a hungry friar who convinced villagers to contribute ingredients to his 'stone soup' one by one. The practical dish is a thick soup of red kidney beans, chouriço, farinheira (flour sausage), presunto, onion, potato, and herbs — a poor man's meal elevated by the full complement of local pork products. Sopa da pedra from Almeirim (Ribatejo) has been given Gastronomic Heritage status in Portugal — the town has a festival in its honour and the recipe is formally documented.
Red kidney beans soaked overnight and cooked from raw — canned beans produce an inferior flavour. The sausages are added whole in the last 30 minutes and removed before serving — they flavour the broth and are sliced for serving alongside. The soup should be thick enough to coat a spoon. Serve with cornbread (broa) and a glass of Ribatejo wine.
The folk tale of the stone soup is essentially a story about the power of communal cooking — each contributor's ingredient adds to what was offered before. For service, add the stone — a smooth river stone, washed and cleaned — as a garnish and conversation piece. The stone gives nothing flavourwise but the story is the dish. Pair with Ribatejo Castelão or Fernão Pires white.
Starting with canned beans — the broth lacks body. Adding sausages at the beginning — they overcook and lose their character. Under-cooking the beans — they must be very tender. Over-seasoning — the sausages provide significant salt.
Leite's Culinaria — Portuguese tradition