Alentejo and Setúbal, Portugal
The dogfish soup of the Alentejo coast and Setúbal region — a simple, direct preparation of sliced dogfish (cação, a small shark species) in a broth of water, garlic, coriander, vinegar, and olive oil, poured hot over slices of old bread in the bowl. This is açorda principle applied to fish: the bread absorbs the flavoured broth, the fish provides protein, and the vinegar and coriander provide the sharp, herbal complexity. The cação has a firm, slightly sweet flesh that holds up in the hot broth without falling apart. The vinegar in the broth prevents the fish from smelling 'fishy' — this is both a flavour choice and a practical technique from the era before reliable refrigeration.
The broth is water-based, not stock-based — the simplicity is the point. Cook the garlic in olive oil first, add water, bring to a simmer, add the dogfish slices and poach for 5-6 minutes. Add vinegar and coriander off the heat. Pour over bread slices in the serving bowl. The bread provides the carbohydrate and body; the fish provides the protein.
The dogfish in Portugal comes from the Atlantic coast and is often available salted (cação salgado) as well as fresh. The salted version needs brief desalting (2-4 hours) and produces a more concentrated flavour. Some versions add potato to the broth for additional body. The dish is best made with good Portuguese olive oil and an abundance of fresh cilantro. Pair with Vinho Verde or white Alentejano.
Using a strong fish stock instead of water — the broth becomes too rich. Adding vinegar during cooking — it should be added off the heat. Overcooking the dogfish — it toughens quickly. Using fresh bread — stale bread absorbs the broth correctly.
Leite's Culinaria — Portuguese tradition