Soufflé aux épinards is the savoury vegetable soufflé par excellence — a dramatic, green-flecked tower of egg-lightened spinach rising above its mould, showcasing the entremetier's mastery of both vegetable preparation and soufflé technique. It follows the same structural principles as soufflé au fromage (thick base + beaten whites) but introduces the additional challenge of incorporating a vegetable purée without deflating the mixture or introducing excess moisture. Prepare the spinach: blanch 500g of fresh spinach for 60 seconds, refresh in iced water, squeeze with tremendous pressure to extract all moisture, then chop very finely or purée. This drying step is even more critical than for épinards à la crème — any moisture in the spinach will leach into the soufflé base and prevent proper rising. In a saucepan, melt 40g of butter, add 40g of flour, cook the roux for 2 minutes without colour. Add 250ml of warm milk gradually, whisking to a thick, smooth béchamel. Off the heat, beat in the dried, chopped spinach, 4 egg yolks (one at a time), 50g of grated Gruyère, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. The base should be thick, smooth, and intensely green. This can be prepared hours ahead. Whisk 5 egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff, glossy peaks. Fold one-third vigorously into the spinach base to lighten, then fold the remaining whites in two gentle additions. Pour into a buttered and Parmesan-dusted 1.5-litre soufflé dish, filling to three-quarters. Run your thumb around the inside rim for the top-hat rise. Bake at 190°C for 25-28 minutes without opening the door. The soufflé should rise 5-7cm above the rim, with a golden surface and a gentle wobble at the centre. Serve within 60 seconds. The interior should reveal a creamy, green, barely-set mousse that contrasts beautifully with the firm, golden exterior. This soufflé is a first course of the highest order — its drama at the table matched only by its ephemeral deliciousness.
Spinach blanched, pressed bone-dry, and chopped fine — moisture is the enemy of soufflé rise. Thick béchamel base enriched with yolks and Gruyère. Whites to stiff glossy peaks, folded in three stages. Buttered and Parmesan-dusted mould, thumb channel at rim. 190°C, 25-28 minutes, no door opening. Serve in 60 seconds.
Frozen spinach (thawed and thoroughly squeezed) is actually superior here — it's already blanched and more consistently dry. A tablespoon of Pernod or Pastis added to the base gives a subtle anise note that elevates spinach beautifully. For a richer version, fold a few cubes of Roquefort into the mixture before pouring. Individual soufflés (8-10 min at 200°C) are more forgiving and produce more impressive height-to-base ratio. The base with yolks (without whites) can be refrigerated overnight — bring to room temperature, fold in freshly beaten whites, and bake to order.
Insufficiently dried spinach — introduces moisture that prevents proper rise. Base too thin — cannot support risen structure. Over-folding whites, deflating the volume. Opening the oven door during baking. Not serving immediately — a spinach soufflé deflates even faster than cheese due to the vegetable's moisture content.
Le Guide Culinaire — Auguste Escoffier