The fish soufflé combines the poissonnier's mastery of fish mousse with the pâtissier's command of meringue — a base of fish mousseline (or thick fish velouté bound with yolks) lightened with stiffly beaten egg whites and baked until puffed, golden, and trembling. It is served as both a first course and a main, the fish flavour carried skyward on a cloud of aerated egg protein. The base: blend 300g raw fish flesh (sole, pike, or salmon) to a smooth purée with 2 egg yolks and 200ml thick béchamel or fish velouté. Pass through a fine tamis (drum sieve) for absolute smoothness. Season with salt, white pepper, cayenne, and a squeeze of lemon. Separately, whisk 4 egg whites with a pinch of salt to stiff peaks — the whites should be glossy and hold a firm peak when the whisk is lifted. Fold one-third of the whites into the fish base vigorously (this sacrificial portion lightens the base and makes subsequent folding easier). Fold in the remaining two-thirds gently — use a large spatula, cutting through the centre and folding over, rotating the bowl. Overfolding deflates the whites; underfolding leaves visible streaks. Pour into a buttered and flour-dusted soufflé dish (1.5 litre), filling to 2cm below the rim. Bake at 200°C for 18-22 minutes — the soufflé should have risen 4-5cm above the rim, the top golden brown, and the centre still slightly tremulous. A soufflé waits for no one: carry it from oven to table immediately. The exterior should be set and flavourful; the interior should be barely set, almost saucy — this is the ideal contrast.
The fish base must be smooth — any fibre or lump prevents even rising Egg whites to stiff, glossy peaks — under-beaten whites lack structure; over-beaten are grainy and dry Fold in three stages: one-third vigorously (to lighten), two-thirds gently (to preserve air) Butter AND flour the mould — the soufflé climbs the coated surface; an uncoated mould prevents proper rise Bake at 200°C without opening the door — cold air collapses the soufflé instantly
Run your thumb around the rim of the filled mould to create a shallow groove — this helps the soufflé rise evenly with a clean 'top hat' shape For a twice-baked version (more forgiving for service): bake small soufflés in ramekins, cool, unmould, and bake again in cream for 12 minutes at 190°C — they puff again and can be timed to order A tablespoon of finely grated Gruyère folded into the base before the whites adds a savoury depth that complements the fish beautifully
Not sieving the fish base — fibres and lumps create dense pockets that prevent rising Over-folding, which deflates the whites and produces a dense, flat soufflé Opening the oven door during baking — the temperature drop collapses the risen structure Overfilling the mould — the mixture needs room to rise; 2cm below the rim is correct Serving after even 2 minutes of delay — a soufflé begins falling the moment it leaves the oven
Escoffier, Le Guide Culinaire; Larousse Gastronomique