Soup Joumou

Haiti (January 1st Independence tradition since 1804)

Soup joumou is Haiti's Independence Soup, consumed every January 1st since 1804 — a celebration of the moment enslaved Haitians won their freedom from French colonisers who had denied them the right to eat this very soup. The dish is a rich, golden pumpkin (joumou squash) broth built on beef, root vegetables (yam, malanga, turnip), pasta, and Haitian epis (a blended seasoning base of parsley, thyme, scotch bonnet, garlic, and herbs). The pumpkin is cooked down and blended into the broth, creating a velvety, intensely flavoured base; the beef is marinated in citrus and spices before being added. It is simultaneously a soup of extraordinary culinary complexity and one of the most politically charged dishes in the world.

• The pumpkin-broth base connects to West African groundnut and pumpkin soups brought via the slave trade; the beef-in-aromatic-broth structure mirrors French pot-au-feu, reflecting the colonial cuisine from which Haitian cooks reclaimed this dish.

Bread (pain Haïtien, a crusty Haitian loaf) is the canonical accompaniment for dunking; the soup is consumed as a complete meal and the January 1st tradition makes its social context inseparable from its flavour.