Liguria — Entroterra Genovese e Riviera di Ponente
Liguria's rabbit stew — the definitive Ligurian meat preparation. Jointed rabbit braised with Taggiasca olives, pine nuts, rosemary, marjoram, white wine, and tomato in olive oil. The Taggiasca olives and pine nuts are as essential as the rabbit — they provide the textural and flavour counterpoints (olive butteriness, pine nut nuttiness) that transform a simple braise into something specifically and unmistakably Ligurian. Every farmhouse in the hills above Genoa has this dish in its repertoire.
Herb-infused braised rabbit, Taggiasca olive butteriness, pine nut crunch, white wine mineral — the definitive taste of the Ligurian hill farm
{"Rabbit: farmed rabbit minimum 1.5kg — wild rabbit requires longer cooking and has a more gamey character that the delicate Ligurian preparation cannot support","Brown in abundant olive oil in batches — each piece must develop a full Maillard crust before braising begins","Taggiasca olives added whole, unpitted: the stone inside moderates the olive's dissolution during braising — pitted olives disintegrate into the sauce","Pine nuts: added in the final 15 minutes — if added too early, they become soft and lose their textural contribution","White wine: Pigato del Ponente (the Ligurian coastal white) — its herbal, slightly bitter character is calibrated for rabbit"}
{"A tablespoon of fresh marjoram added at the end of cooking only — the herb's volatile oils must not cook away","The braising liquid reduced with an additional splash of wine after removing the rabbit — creates a more concentrated sauce for spooning over","Serve with polenta or focaccia for sauce-absorption — the Ligurian tradition","A few capers added with the olives give an additional briny note without disrupting the olive character"}
{"Wild rabbit — requires different timing and produces a more gamey result than the gentle Ligurian preparation intends","Generic black olives instead of Taggiasca — the buttery, mild Taggiasca quality is what prevents the olive from overwhelming the rabbit","Pine nuts added at the start — they become soft and indistinguishable in the sauce","Red wine — fundamentally changes the character from delicate-herbal to robust-tannic; white wine is specified"}
La Cucina Ligure — Paolo Lingua (De Ferrari Editore)