Mammola, Locride, Calabria — the stocco tradition of Mammola is the most celebrated stockfish preparation in Italy. The Norwegian cod dried on racks at Lofoten arrived in Calabria through the medieval spice and fish trade. The Mammolese claim their rehydration and cooking technique is specific to the town's water quality and climate.
Stocco (stockfish — wind-dried, unsalted cod rather than salt-dried baccalà) is the fish of Mammola, a small town in the Locride area of Calabria, where the stocco tradition is so entrenched that the town has a dedicated Stocco di Mammola consortium. The Mammolese preparation braises the rehydrated stockfish with tomato, black Gaeta olives, capers, peperoncino, olive oil, and potatoes into a rich, olive-salty, deeply flavoured stew. Stockfish has a more concentrated, gelatinous texture than baccalà — the drying without salt concentrates the fish oils and creates a stickier, more glutinous texture when rehydrated. The preparation takes 2-3 days to prepare (rehydration time).
Stocco alla mammolese in the bowl has a sauce that is thick and sticky from the stockfish gelatin — almost a glaze rather than a broth. The stocco pieces are soft and yielding, with a concentrated, slightly oceanic flavour distinct from baccalà. The olives and capers add acidity and salt; the peperoncino adds heat; the tomato provides the body. With Calabrian bread to absorb the sticky sauce, it is one of the most distinctive preparations in the Italian fish tradition.
Rehydrate stockfish 48-72 hours in cold water, changing water twice daily — stockfish requires much longer rehydration than baccalà. The fish should be soft and pliable with no hard spots. Cut into large pieces (maintain skin). Dust with flour; brown briefly in olive oil. In the same pan, soften onion and garlic; add crushed tomatoes; cook 10 minutes. Add the browned stocco, potatoes (cubed), black Gaeta olives, capers, and peperoncino. Add water to cover halfway. Braise covered 30-40 minutes until the potato is tender and the stocco is completely yielding. The sauce will be sticky and glossy from the stockfish gelatin.
Stocco (stockfish) from Mammola can be purchased from specialist Italian food importers and online — look for 'stocco di Mammola' specifically. The Mammolese stocco festival (Sagra dello Stocco) occurs each August. Stockfish's distinctive gelatinous texture when cooked is an acquired taste — the preparation is not subtle, but its adherents consider it irreplaceable.
Insufficient rehydration — stockfish that is still firm in the centre after cooking is underhydrated; 72 hours with water changes is the minimum. Missing the skin — the stockfish skin is where most of the gelatin is; removing it before cooking produces a less sticky, less richly textured sauce. Over-cooking — the stockfish can fall apart to threads if cooked too long; 30-40 minutes once it is added to the sauce is sufficient.
Slow Food Editore, Calabria in Cucina; Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy