Molise — Pasta & Primi Authority tier 1

Taccozze e Fagioli — Rough Pasta and Beans of Molise

Molise — throughout the region. The rough diamond-cut pasta is one of the oldest pasta forms in the Apennine tradition, predating the standardized commercial shapes. The combination with beans is universal in the Molisan interior.

Taccozze are the rough, irregular diamond-shaped pasta of Molise — cut from an egg-and-flour (or semolina-and-water) dough with a knife in irregular shapes, intentionally uneven, because the roughness grips the bean broth and sauce more effectively than a smooth pasta. They are cooked directly in the bean pot alongside borlotti or cannellini beans, where they absorb the starchy bean broth and the rendered pork fat. The preparation is nearly identical to the Pugliese pasta e fagioli and the Abruzzese version, but the irregular diamond shape of the taccozze is specific to Molise and distinguishes the regional variant.

Taccozze e fagioli in its thick, correct state is dense and satisfying — the irregular pasta surface holds the starchy bean broth; the cotiche fat rounds everything; the chilli and olive oil brighten. Each bite contains pasta, beans, and broth simultaneously. It is the food that kept the Molisano shepherd alive in winter.

The dough: 00 flour and eggs (or semolina and water for the traditional version), rolled to 3mm. Cut into rough diamonds by making diagonal cuts in both directions at 3-4cm intervals — the irregular shape is intentional. Cook dried borlotti overnight-soaked, with pork rind (cotiche), lard, and aromatics for 1.5-2 hours. Add the raw pasta directly to the bean pot in the last 10-12 minutes. The pasta should be added when the beans are almost completely tender — the pasta will absorb the remaining liquid and its starch will thicken the soup. Season with salt at the end only. Finish with raw olive oil and dried chilli.

The taccozze cut can be done with a rolling cutter (pastry wheel with a crimped edge) for a decorative ruffled border — this increases surface area and sauce-grip. The Molisano version often includes a piece of lard rendered early in the cooking — the fat provides body and flavour to the bean broth. Eat in warmed bowls; the soup thickens dramatically as it cools.

Cutting too uniform — the rough, irregular diamond shape is correct; precision defeats the purpose. Adding pasta to beans that aren't fully cooked — the pasta absorbs the remaining liquid and the beans won't finish cooking. Not thickening with bean starch — press some beans against the side of the pot with a spoon to release starch and create a creamy base.

Oretta Zanini de Vita, Encyclopedia of Pasta; Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina

{'cuisine': 'Abruzzese', 'technique': 'Pasta e Fagioli Abruzzese', 'connection': 'Rough pasta cooked directly in bean broth with rendered pork — the Abruzzese and Molisano pasta e fagioli are close cousins; the Abruzzese uses broken tagliatelle; the Molisano uses rough diamond-cut taccozze; both cook the pasta in the bean broth and let it absorb the liquid'} {'cuisine': 'Greek', 'technique': 'Fasolada (Bean Soup)', 'connection': 'White bean soup with pasta or bread — the Greek fasolada and Italian bean-and-pasta soups share the Mediterranean tradition of the legume-and-starch one-pot preparation as the primary protein source for the working population'}