Marche
Fresh egg tagliatelle dressed with a slow-braised mutton (or adult sheep) ragù — a preparation from the Marche Apennine sheep-farming tradition that uses older, more flavourful animals for a deeply gamey, complex sauce. The sheep is marinated in local Verdicchio wine overnight, then braised with rosemary, sage and a strip of lardo until falling apart. Finished with Pecorino di Fossa.
Deeply gamey and rich; wine and rosemary temper without eliminating the sheep's character; Pecorino di Fossa adds mineral funk; the tagliatelle absorbs the fragrant fat — pastoral cooking at its most assertive and satisfying
{"Use adult sheep or older lamb — the gamey flavour from older animals is the point; young lamb makes a different and inferior dish","Marinate overnight in Verdicchio with rosemary, sage and juniper — sheep's gaminess requires the full overnight treatment","The lardo added to the braising pot provides essential fat that sheep meat (a lean animal) lacks","Braise covered at 150°C for 3 hours until the meat is falling from the bone","Shred the meat finely back into the reduced sauce — the fibres must be fine enough to distribute through the pasta"}
{"A small amount of tomato paste (rather than fresh tomato) deepens the colour and adds umami without adding acidity to an already gamey sauce","Pecorino di Fossa at service — its mineral funk amplifies and reinforces the sheep ragù's gaminess beautifully","The ragù freezes perfectly — make a double batch; the flavour is better after freezing and reheating"}
{"Using young lamb — the gaminess of adult sheep is the defining flavour; young lamb produces a 'correct' but undistinctive sauce","Short marinade — sheep's strong gaminess requires the full overnight treatment","Not adding lardo — the lean sheep meat produces a dry, tight sauce without added fat"}
La Cucina delle Marche — Sapori e Tradizioni