Norcia and the Valnerina, Umbria — the black truffle of Norcia (Tuber melanosporum) is harvested from December through March. The tagliolini preparation is the canonical Norcia winter celebration pasta, prepared for weddings, Christmas, and special occasions.
Tagliolini (thin, flat egg pasta — narrower than tagliatelle, wider than spaghettini) with Norcia black truffle is the celebration pasta of Umbrian winter: fresh egg pasta cut to 2mm, dressed with nothing but melted butter in which thinly grated or shaved fresh Tuber melanosporum has been warmed for 30 seconds, then tossed at the table with a final grating of truffle directly from the knob. The pasta's simplicity is intentional — the egg dough and the butter exist to carry the truffle, which is the entire flavour. No Parmigiano, no garlic, no cream — anything added competes with the truffle's volatile aromatic compounds.
Tagliolini al tartufo nero is one of the most powerful flavour experiences available in Italian cooking — the entire room fills with the truffle aroma as the plate is carried from kitchen to table. At the first bite, the flavour of the earth, iron, and something almost mineral-animal registers with immediate intensity, then lingers. The butter and pasta are invisible; the truffle is everything.
Fresh pasta (100g 00 flour per 2 egg yolks, with 1 whole egg per 400g flour for structure). Roll to 1.5mm — thin enough to cook in 90 seconds but thick enough to have presence. Cut to 2mm width (tagliolini). Cook in abundant boiling salted water for 90 seconds. Meanwhile, in a wide, warm (not hot) pan, melt butter gently with 3-4 thin slices of black truffle — the truffle should warm and just begin to release its aroma; it should not sizzle. Drain the pasta, add to the pan, toss gently. Plate immediately. Shave additional truffle generously over each portion at the table using a truffle slicer.
The truffle quantity is the governing variable — for a portion of tagliolini for two, a 15-20g truffle produces a recognisable result; 25-30g produces something remarkable. The perfume should be in the room before the plate reaches the table. The truffle slicer (affettatartufi) should be set to its thinnest setting — the slices should be translucent.
Heating the truffle too strongly — volatile aromatic compounds evaporate above 60°C; the butter should be barely warm (50-60°C). Adding Parmigiano — the cheese's sharpness obscures the truffle aroma. Using truffle oil — synthetic compounds, not remotely adequate. Shaving truffle too thick — thin, translucent slices release more aroma per gram.
Giorgio Locatelli, Made in Italy; Slow Food Editore, Umbria in Cucina