Taiyaki — The Shape as Identity

Taiyaki (鯛焼き — "sea bream bake") is a fish-shaped waffle confection made from a simple batter (flour, egg, sugar, baking powder, and water or milk) cooked in a cast-iron mould shaped like a tai (red sea bream — a fish of significant cultural importance in Japan as a symbol of celebration and good fortune), filled with tsubu-an and sealed. It was created in 1909 by Seijiro Kobe at the Naniwaya Sohonten in Tokyo's Azabu-Juban neighbourhood, which still operates today and still has queues. The sea bream shape was chosen deliberately — the tai was an expensive, celebration-associated fish that most common people could not afford. The taiyaki allowed anyone to eat the symbol of celebration for a few coins. The democratisation of a luxury through confectionery form.

The taiyaki's technique is fundamentally about the heat transfer through the cast-iron mould. The batter is ladled into each half of the preheated, oiled mould; the filling is spooned over the batter on one half; the mould is closed and placed over direct heat (traditionally gas, now often electric). The mould is turned every 1–2 minutes during a total cooking time of 4–6 minutes. The cast iron's mass holds heat evenly and produces the characteristic slight crispness of the exterior (more than a waffle, less than a cracker) while the interior remains soft and slightly yielding. The filling must be compact enough not to flow — if the tsubu-an is too wet, it migrates through the batter and creates voids.

• The fish-shaped confection tradition appears in: the Norwegian lussekatt (a saffron bun shaped as an S — the shape as the message), the Finnish kalakukko (a fish-shaped rye pastry enclosing small fish
• Bungeoppang was introduced to Korea during the Japanese colonial period and has been fully adopted as Korean street food, its Japanese origin retained in the name (bungeo = crucian carp, ppang = bread