Osaka, Japan. Invented by Tomekichi Endo in Namba, Osaka, in 1935. Takoyaki is one of the defining foods of Osaka street culture, and the city's pride in its food identity (kuidaore — eat until you drop) is symbolised by takoyaki.
Takoyaki — octopus balls — are a sphere of dashi-rich batter, baked in a cast-iron mould, packed with diced octopus, tenkasu (tempura scraps), red pickled ginger, and spring onion. The exterior is crisp; the interior is molten, almost liquid — the texture is unlike anything else in world cooking. They are made on the streets of Osaka in front of you and eaten burning hot.
Cold Kirin or Asahi lager from a can — this is Osaka street food. The setting is a plastic stool, a paper tray, and a very cold beer. No wine pairing is relevant.
{"The batter: dashi (strong katsuobushi and kombu), eggs, flour, soy, and a small amount of usukuchi (light soy) — very liquid, almost a thin crepe batter consistency","The takoyaki mould: a cast-iron plate with hemispherical cavities, preheated and brushed generously with vegetable oil or lard","Octopus: Madako (common octopus), tentacles cut into 1.5cm pieces after blanching in salted water with a konbu leaf for 20 minutes — the blanching tenderises the octopus","The turning technique: once the underside has set and is golden, insert two bamboo skewers or turning tools into each ball and rotate 90 degrees — the uncooked batter flows into the newly heated side. Rotate again to fully round the ball","Finish applications: okonomiyaki sauce, Kewpie mayonnaise, dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi), aonori","Serve immediately: the molten interior sets within 3 minutes of leaving the heat"}
The moment where takoyaki lives or dies is the first turn — rotate each ball when the edges are clearly set (about 2 minutes after pouring). At this point, the top is still raw. Insert the skewer at the 9 o'clock position of each ball and rotate quickly to 3 o'clock — the raw batter flows out and down into the hot cavity, forming the sphere. If the batter is too hot, it sets immediately on the skewer contact and the ball deforms. Perfect takoyaki balls require the right temperature management.
{"Not preheating the mould sufficiently: the batter must sizzle instantly on contact or the balls will not release","Overfilling each cavity: the batter should fill to the rim, with a little extra to account for the mounding that occurs when the ball is formed","Hesitating on the turn: the turn must be decisive — hesitation produces an uneven ball with one flat side"}