Val Taleggio, Bergamo, Lombardia
Lombardia's paradigm washed-rind cheese from Val Taleggio in the Bergamo pre-Alps — a square-format soft cheese of 2kg with an orange-pink brined rind and a cream-coloured paste that ranges from firm-young to fully runny-ripe. The rind is washed weekly with brine during the 40-day minimum maturation in mountain caves or dedicated cantine. The flavour is fruity, tangy, and mushroomy with a characteristic ammonia edge in the fully-ripe cheese.
Fruity, tangy, mushroomy, with ammonia and barnyard notes at full ripeness — the defining washed-rind cheese of northern Italy
Washed-rind bacteria (Brevibacterium linens) thrive on the brine-washed surface and produce the characteristic pink rind and pungent aroma. Temperature and humidity control during maturation is everything — too warm and the rind develops too fast; too cold and it fails to develop. For cooking: bring to room temperature to allow the rind to soften and the paste to approach runny consistency before use.
Melt over polenta (polenta concia variation) for one of northern Italy's great comfort combinations. Use as the cheese layer in a lasagna variant — it melts clean and contributes fruity depth. For a cheese course, pair with honeycomb and walnut bread to echo and counter the ammonia notes. Excellent on pizza when added after baking rather than during — the heat of the cooked base warms it without over-cooking.
Discarding the rind — the rind is edible and concentrates flavour. Serving too cold — refrigerator temperature deadens the aromatic compounds and firms the paste. Confusing fully-ripe (runny, strong) with young Taleggio (firm, mild) — the use cases differ significantly. Using as a cooking cheese at too high heat destroys the delicate aromatic profile.
Formaggi d'Italia — Slow Food Editore