The tamale — masa (nixtamalised corn dough) spread on a corn husk or banana leaf, filled with meat, chile, cheese, or sweet fillings, wrapped, and steamed — is one of the oldest prepared foods in the Americas, documented in Mesoamerican archaeological sites dating back 8,000 years. In New Mexico, tamales are Christmas food: dozens (or hundreds) are made in a single session by extended families working together, the assembly-line process serving the same communal function as the Appalachian stack cake (AM2-08) or the Cajun boucherie (LA1-10). The tamale is the original portable food, the original wrapped food, and the original steamed food of the Western Hemisphere.
A tamale is three components: the masa (corn dough enriched with lard and broth, beaten until light), the filling (red chile pork, green chile chicken, cheese with green chile, or sweet fillings like cinnamon and raisin), and the wrapper (dried corn husks, soaked until pliable). The masa is spread in a thin, even layer on the husk, a spoonful of filling is placed in the centre, the husk is folded to enclose the filling in masa, and the packet is steamed upright in a large pot for 45-60 minutes until the masa is firm, pulls away from the husk cleanly, and has a light, slightly spongy texture.
Red chile sauce (AM3-10) poured over the unwrapped tamales. Green chile sauce alongside. The tamale is a self-contained unit — masa, filling, sauce — that is a complete meal in itself.
1) The masa must be beaten until light — properly prepared tamale masa is whipped with lard (or vegetable shortening) and broth until a small ball floats in water. This is the float test: if the masa sinks, it needs more beating or more fat. The air incorporated during beating produces a light tamale; under-beaten masa produces a dense, heavy, unpleasant tamale. 2) Lard is the traditional fat and produces the lightest, most flavourful masa. Vegetable shortening is the substitute for those who don't eat pork. Butter is not traditional and produces a different flavour. The fat proportion is significant: approximately 1 cup of fat per 2 cups of masa. 3) Spread the masa thinly and evenly on the husk — 3mm thick. Too thick and the tamale is all dough; too thin and it tears during wrapping. 4) Steam upright (open end up) in a pot with a steamer insert, tightly packed so they support each other. The steam cooks the masa from all sides simultaneously. 45-60 minutes; the tamale is done when the masa pulls away from the husk cleanly. 5) The communal production is the tradition. Tamale making is a family event — the assembly line (one person spreads masa, one fills, one wraps, one arranges in the pot) moves dozens of tamales per hour and the conversation, the music, and the shared labour are as important as the product.
Carne adovada (AM3-12) makes the finest tamale filling — the chile-braised pork, already tender and intensely flavoured, is the traditional New Mexican red chile tamale filling. Green chile and cheese tamales — chopped roasted green chile (AM3-09) with strips of Monterey Jack or cheddar. The cheese melts inside the masa during steaming, creating pockets of molten cheese within the corn dough. Sweet tamales — masa mixed with sugar, cinnamon, and raisins, spread on husks and steamed. These are dessert tamales, pink-tinted with food colouring in some traditions, and served at the end of the tamale meal.
Not beating the masa enough — the float test is the standard. Dense tamales indicate under-beaten masa. Overfilling — too much filling splits the masa during steaming. A tablespoon of filling per tamale is typical. Not soaking the husks — dry husks crack and don't fold. Soak in warm water for 30 minutes minimum until pliable. Packing the steamer loosely — the tamales must support each other upright. Loose packing allows them to fall over and the filling leaks.
Bill Jamison & Cheryl Alters Jamison — The Rancho de Chimayó Cookbook; Diana Kennedy — The Essential Cuisines of Mexico