Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica. The word tamalli comes from Nahuatl. Archaeological evidence of tamale preparation dates to at least 1000 BCE.
Tamales are the ceremonial and everyday food of Mexico — masa spread on a corn husk (or banana leaf, depending on region), filled, wrapped, and steamed. They are ancient (evidence from 1000 BCE) and represent the full range of regional Mexican cooking: from the Veracruz zacahuil (a single tamale that feeds 100 people, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in a brick pit) to the delicate Oaxacan tamale negro (black mole filling in a banana leaf) to the Michoacán corunda (triangular, tied in tule reeds, filled with salsa and cheese). The masa for tamales is enriched with lard (or vegetable shortening) and chicken or pork broth, beaten until light — the traditional test is dropping a small ball into a glass of water; if it floats, the masa is correctly aerated. Spreading technique: a heaped tablespoon of masa is placed on the smooth side of a softened corn husk, spread to a thin, even layer using a spoon or offset spatula, leaving a 1-inch border on the narrow end and 2 inches on the wide end. The filling is placed down the centre, and the husk is folded — first one side over the filling, then the other, then the narrow end is folded up.
The flavour of a tamale is determined primarily by the quality of the masa (lard quantity, broth flavour, masa grain quality) and the filling. The corn husk contributes a subtle dried grass fragrance during steaming.
The float test: beaten tamale masa must pass the float test (a small ball floats in water) — this indicates sufficient aeration for a light, tender texture Softening corn husks: soak dried husks in boiling water for 30 minutes; they must be pliable but not waterlogged Steaming, not boiling: tamales are always steamed upright, open end up, in a steamer lined with extra corn husks Do not open the steamer for the first 45 minutes — steam loss will cause uneven cooking A properly cooked tamale pulls cleanly away from its husk — if it sticks, cook for an additional 10–15 minutes
Make tamale masa the day before, refrigerate, and allow it to come to room temperature before spreading — rested masa is more extensible and easier to spread evenly For the most traditional flavour, use rendered leaf lard (manteca de cerdo, not commercial lard) — the flavour difference is significant Line the steamer with extra corn husks both as a cushion and as a steam-humidity regulator Leftover tamales reheat perfectly in the steamer (15 minutes) or wrapped in a damp paper towel in the microwave
Spreading masa too thick — produces a dense, doughy tamale Spreading masa too thin — the filling breaks through and the tamale falls apart Not beating the lard sufficiently — un-aerated masa produces a dense, heavy tamale regardless of the float test result Overfilling — the filling expands during steaming and will push through the masa Opening the steamer early — releases critical steam and results in uneven cooking
Diana Kennedy, The Art of Mexican Cooking; Rick Bayless, Authentic Mexican; Zarela Martínez, Food from My Heart