Tapenade — from the Provençal tapeno (capers), the name revealing the ingredient hierarchy: capers first, then olives, then anchovies — is the Provençal paste that demonstrates the principle of complex umami construction from a small number of ingredients. All three primary components are glutamate-rich (olives) or inosinate-rich (anchovies) — the combination produces a synergistic umami far exceeding any single component.
- **The black olives:** Nicoise or Kalamata — pitted. The olive's fat carries the other components' aromatic compounds. - **Capers:** Salt-packed (rinsed), not brine-packed. - **Anchovies:** Salt-packed, rinsed and dried. - **The ratio:** Capers and anchovies are supporting flavours — olives are the primary component. Too many anchovies: the fish note dominates. Too many capers: the tapenade becomes aggressively sharp. [VERIFY] Reynaud's ratio. - **Mortar technique:** Coarsely pounded in a mortar — never blended to a smooth paste. The rough texture is part of the identity. - **Olive oil:** Added at the end to reach the correct spreadable consistency.
France: The Cookbook