Molise interior — the taranta tradition is associated with the shepherd and peasant diet of the Campobasso highlands. The preparation is among the oldest in the region, predating the adoption of New World crops.
Taranta is one of the most ancient grain preparations of the Molise interior: a thick porridge-like preparation of multiple grains and legumes (wheat berries, chickpeas, farro, lentils — whatever was available) slow-cooked together with lard, onion, and the local dried peperoncino until each grain has fully hydrated and all the elements have unified into a dense, warm mass. It is the paradigm of the Molisano transhumance food — dried ingredients carried on the journey, combined in a single pot over the fire, and eaten communally. The combination of grains and legumes provides complete protein and sustained energy.
Taranta is not a refined preparation — it is dense, satisfying, and tastes of the grain and legume combination with the warmth of lard and peperoncino. The variety of textures (firm wheat berries against softer chickpeas against nearly-dissolved lentils) creates an interesting mouthfeel. It is the food of sustained labour in a cold climate.
Soak the wheat berries and chickpeas overnight separately. Soak the lentils (30 minutes is sufficient). In a heavy pot, render lard until transparent. Add diced onion, soften. Add the soaked grain and legumes (drained), cover generously with water, add salt (after the legumes are partially cooked — 45 minutes in), dried peperoncino, and a sprig of rosemary. Simmer very gently for 1.5-2 hours, adding water as needed, until all the grains are completely tender and the preparation has thickened to a porridge-like consistency. The taranta should be dense — a spoon drawn through it should leave a trail that slowly closes.
The variety of grains and legumes is flexible — the dish is by definition a preparation of whatever is available. The traditional Molisano version uses local varieties: farro monococco (the most ancient wheat of the region), local lentils, and Borlotti beans. The peperoncino heat should be noticeable but gentle.
Salting too early — the chickpeas and wheat skin toughens. Insufficient cooking time — undercooked wheat berries are unpleasant; all grains must be completely tender. Over-salting — lard provides natural salt; taste before adding.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Gillian Riley, The Oxford Companion to Italian Food